PARIS — The fashion industry had better start warming up, as it will need to be in Olympic shape come June 18, when 10 days of fashion will kick off. During that period, some 72 men’s labels will show their spring 2025 collections, followed by 30 couture houses with their fall 2024 designs, according to … Read more
Toteme’s style universe expanded Monday night with its first runway show in Paris. It marked the 10th anniversary for the Swedish brand, co-founded by husband-and-wife Karl Lindman and Elin King. Overall it was a calming, cohesive presentation of precise, polished and very wearable wardrobe staples that fit cleverly between men’s week – with this season’s … Read more
Liisa Kessler, Filippa K’s new creative director, has been working to restore the brand to its roots in sensual, practical, well-made clothes and wants to offer up a fresh idea of what Scandinavian style can be. “We’re asking ourselves what Scandinavian style means today, and the answer is effortless clothing that isn’t overdesigned. It’s also … Read more
Mr. Saturday creative director Joey Gollish wanted to both critique and co-opt the punk aesthetic for his fall collection. Gollish worked from the thesis that The Sex Pistols’ legendary gig at Manchester’s Lesser Free Trade Hall in 1976 was the only moment punk truly existed – everything after it was an imitation. So he imitated … Read more
Eli Russell Linnetz has written his first feature film, and plans to start rolling cameras next winter. “Because it takes place in the show,” said the California-based creative, who directs music videos and takes pictures in addition to his growing ERL fashion business. He described the movie as a “comedy, but dramatic.” His fall collection, … Read more
It was a “Thriller” night at the Doublet show on Sunday night, with zombie-like models traversing a runway with the most unflattering light possible in their pieced-together Frankenstein tailoring, hoodies with wry slogans, and versions of Michael Jackson’s iconic leather jacket by Deborah Nadoolman Landis. The show was a hoot, pinging between the truly frightful … Read more
Fashion weeks can sometimes feel immune to the chaotic events happening elsewhere in the world. At the closing show of the Paris men’s collections on Sunday, GmbH designers Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik brought the war between Israel and Hamas front and center. Standing at a podium, the duo opened the show with a 10-minute … Read more
Shangguan Zhe was again influenced this season by Mont Kailash, a sacred mountain in China. At Sankuanz, he mixed traditional silhouettes from Tibet with more modern Western design, resulting in a luxurious collection with a strong streetwear vibe. Nodding to classical Chinese garments were the loose, roomy shapes. Tibetan robe draping was at the heart of jackets, … Read more
Coming off a mixed year that saw him reach the semifinals of the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, only to be embroiled in a legal challenge over his clothing brand’s name, Kartik Kumra appears to be starting 2024 on the right foot. On Sunday, he staged his first physical presentation, which twinned as his debut … Read more
Thinking about what constitutes classicism in fashion had designer Takuya Morikawa considering what that means to him. For Japanese people, classic spells Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons, he said through a translator. But don’t go looking for any resemblance to these illustrious forebearers in Taakk’s fall collection, beyond a desire to drill … Read more
