PARIS — The fashion industry had better start warming up, as it will need to be in Olympic shape come June 18, when 10 days of fashion will kick off.
During that period, some 72 men’s labels will show their spring 2025 collections, followed by 30 couture houses with their fall 2024 designs, according to the provisional summer calendars released Friday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.
Couture’s dates were moved to June 24 to 27 in order to avoid a clash with preparations for the 2024 Paris Games.
Among the expected highlights of the men’s calendar is the final collection by Dries Van Noten as creative director of his namesake house, at 8.30 p.m. on June 22.
Cornerstones of the week, such as Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme, Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons, will take up their usual spots on the schedule, although Valentino and Paul Smith are sitting out this Paris session. Smith will show at Pitti Uomo in Florence instead as an invited guest designer.
The Rome-based house tapped Alessandro Michele as creative director in March, with his first collection expected to be for spring 2025 ready-to-wear. Smith will show his spring 2025 collection at Pitti Uomo on June 11.
Also absent are Givenchy and GmbH.
Opening the men’s calendar will be the BA students of the Institut Français de la Mode on June 18 at 3.30 p.m.
On June 19, London’s Bianca Saunders will return to the Paris schedule with her 10 a.m. show.
Jun Takahashi’s Undercover label has swapped its usual presentation for a 1:00 p.m. runway slot on the same day while Kenzo has taken the 8:00 p.m. slot.
The season’s new show entry is Berlin-based label 032c, at 7 p.m. on June 20, a day that will also see Rick Owens show at 12:30 p.m.
Balmain is set for 8 p.m. on June 21, while the Japanese label Taak will close the men’s spring 2025 season with a show at 5:30 p.m. on June 23.
The presentation calendar will be just as busy. June 21 will see the return of Y-3, the partnership between Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas, and the on-schedule debut of Paris-born Emeric Tchatchoua’s 10-year-old label 3.Paradis.
Other returnees throughout the week include Courrèges, Arturo Obegero, C.R.E.O.L.E. and Études Studio.
Parisian labels Botter and Officine Générale as well as New York-based label Winnie will be eschewing shows for presentations on June 20, 21 and 23 respectively.
The couture calendar will kick off with Schiaparelli in its usual 10 a.m. spot on June 24.
Few changes have been made in the general configuration of the week, barring the return of Thom Browne, for the New York designer’s second couture show in Paris at 5 p.m. on June 24, and Charles de Vilmorin, slotted at 3:30 p.m. on June 25.
As is customary, Dior will show at 2:30 p.m. on the Monday and Chanel will stage a pair of shows on Tuesday morning. So will Giorgio Armani Privé, with shows at 6:30 and 7:30 p.m. on the same day.
Balenciaga will show its annual couture at 12 p.m. on June 26, the same day as the 6:30 p.m. reveal of Nicolas Di Felice’s one-off collection for Jean Paul Gaultier. Fendi will show at 2:30 p.m. on June 27.
Absentees from the fall season will include Dutch couturier Ronald van der Kemp, Julien Fournié and Alexandre Vauthier, who will be holding one-to-one client appointments after his company filed for court protection on Feb. 13, according to French media reports.
Two years after her debut collection, Iranian-Swedish designer Bahareh Ardakani has been tapped as the latest guest member of the couture federation with her label ArdAzAei, closing the couture schedule at 6 p.m. on June 27.
There will also be a dash of ready-to-wear that day, with Patou’s 5 p.m. spring 2025 show.
While high jewelry presentations are the habitual companion to couture shows, Place Vendôme houses have been turning to destination presentations in the late spring to showcase their latest gems.
The ones who are throwing their tiaras in the Paris Couture Week ring will be revealed mid-May, when the FHCM publishes a fuller calendar of events on its website.
