PARIS — The fashion industry had better start warming up, as it will need to be in Olympic shape come June 18, when 10 days of fashion will kick off. During that period, some 72 men’s labels will show their spring 2025 collections, followed by 30 couture houses with their fall 2024 designs, according to … Read more
John Galliano’s spring 2024 Artisanal collection for Maison Margiela will surely be remembered in history books, collected by museums, pored over by design students — and possibly extinguish the quiet luxury juggernaut with the tsunami of powerful emotions and fashion thrills it unleashed. It was a theatrical tour de force akin to a Toulouse Lautrec … Read more
Robert Wun’s creative process is a little bit like journaling, he said backstage ahead of his second couture show in Paris, his surrealist creations on the runway a little peek into the workings of his mind. Horror movies, for one, are a big inspiration, informing moody surrealist silhouettes. “I love movies, and certain horror genres … Read more
When the going gets tough, the tough look pulled together and get going. Given everything that’s going on in the world, Patou artistic director Guillaume Henry wanted to “embrace the idea of a woman that walks with enthusiasm and with dignity,” he said backstage. “I really adore dressing the idea of dressing a woman that … Read more
Deepening her collaboration with the Paris Opera Ballet, Aelis creative director Sofia Crociani was given access to the costume archives and came away with new shapes and textiles to work with for her largely upcycled and eco-friendly collection. She worked the vintage items, mostly cotton crinolines and petticoats, that she used to create a more … Read more
The spring Ashi Studio collection started with a culinary experience. “I was in a Japanese restaurant and they gave me charcoal to eat,” said Paris-based designer Mohammed Ashi. Served as a foamy concoction topped with a shivering sliver of gold leaf, it was so mesmerizing that it led him down a rabbit hole of Japanese … Read more
There was nary a princess dress in sight, and no bride either. Zuhair Murad paid tribute to Phoenicia, the ancestor of modern-day Lebanon, and its seafaring heritage in a collection of powerful shoulders, straight lines, draped silhouettes and a shipwreck’s hull full of bling to rival the display on his front row. Chain upon chain … Read more
London-based designer Sohee Park loves items with a past. “I always love very old things that have been neglected and I find beauty in them,” said this self-confessed magpie, who has amassed all manners of antique tchotchkes over the years. She channeled this into a spring collection where she translated mother-of-pearl jewelry boxes, a traditional … Read more
Elie Saab reminded us of his red carpet prowess by hosting Jennifer Lopez in the front row. The Lebanese master of shape and sparkle has dressed her “oh, like hundreds of times,” said Saab after the show, and she wanted to support her longtime friend. Lopez caused such commotion when she arrived in the room … Read more
Consider Pieter Mulier’s latest effort for Alaïa a powerful calling card for wool — and for widescreen creative expression within self-defined limits. The Belgian designer challenged himself to create a collection using only a single merino yarn, which is astonishing considering the garments that paraded through Alaïa’s Rue de Marignan boutique resembled denim, velvet, shearling … Read more
