Wales Bonner’s metallic iteration has proved especially popular among women, reselling as high as US$1,075 (up from its US$200 retail price) on the sneaker marketplace StockX.
Meanwhile, Harry Styles helped the Adidas Gazelles rocket in popularity by wearing them throughout his 2022-23 tour, specifically a pair designed in collaboration with Gucci.
By the tour’s end, the sneaker platform Laced reported a doubling in Gazelle sales, thanks in no small part to Styles being seen in them on 125 occasions. The red velvet Gucci Gazelles, donned for 30 of his shows, were his top pick.
“Many are now drawn to the Sambas and Gazelle, even though they were merely indoor football shoes during my youth,” says Caroll Lynn, an Amsterdam-based footwear illustrator and social media manager at Dutch lifestyle store and sneaker retailer Oqium. “It seems the trend for bulkier shoes is somewhat waning.”
Why is everyone buying New Balance? How ‘dad shoe’ sneaker became hot
Why is everyone buying New Balance? How ‘dad shoe’ sneaker became hot
Lynn further highlights the comeback of the Y2K style, characterised by lifestyle running shoes with metallic finishes.
Danforth notes that Asics’ Gel-Kayano 14 is at the forefront of the Y2K revival, amplified through collaborations with JJJJound, Awake NY and Kith. Beyond Asics, brands such as Saucony and New Balance have also successfully capitalised on this trend.
On Running may have missed out on the virality of the Samba but the Swiss brand has also witnessed significant growth, carving out a niche not just among sneaker enthusiasts but also the general public.
Recognised for its distinct sole design called CloudTec, On Running’s sneakers have resonated with many because of their simple yet groundbreaking concept: shoes that provide a soft landing while ensuring a solid take-off.
On’s dedication to sustainability and its position as a forward-thinking activewear brand has also helped it earn a dedicated following, underscoring the opportunity for emerging footwear brands to challenge industry titans like Nike and Adidas.
Other stand-outs are trail running shoes and clog-style models, which are also witnessing soaring popularity. Brands like Salomon, Hoka and Roa have introduced footwear intended for trail performance, yet these shoes have been embraced by mainstream consumers for urban wear.
Salomon, in particular, has captured the attention of the style-savvy, collaborating with high-profile names like Comme des Garcons, Hidden NY and Sandy Liang. Its models, notably the XT-4 and XT-6, began their rise in popularity around 2017, yet demand remains robust.
Pandemic-induced home confinement prompted a surge in preference for comfortable, easy-to-wear shoes. Leading this category are mules from brands such as Crocs and Birkenstock.
Crocs, a brand traditionally associated with its polarising rubber clogs, reported a Q2 2023 revenue increase of 14.9 per cent (when adjusted for constant currency) to US$833 million.
Among sneaker enthusiasts, Crocs has garnered attention through collaborations with designers and brands including Salehe Bembury, Balenciaga, MCM and Levi’s.
Meanwhile, Birkenstock’s revenue jumped 21 per cent in the nine months ending June 30, with revenue of US$1.2 billion.
Its Boston model, particularly in the sand colourway, has become a favourite among fashion lovers, presenting itself as a trendy alternative to conventional sneakers.
The big question remains: what styles should shoppers keep an eye on for coming seasons? While predicting footwear trends remains a challenge, some educated guesses can be made based on current patterns.
For instance, just as the Nike Dunk was hit by oversaturation recently, it’s possible that the Adidas Samba and similar designs might soon take a back seat.
Functional footwear, represented by brands like Salomon and Hoka, seems poised for longevity. Their primarily utilitarian image, rather than a solely “fashion-forward” one, might allow them a longer stint as trends move forward.
On’s rise in the market highlights opportunities for emerging footwear brands. The past few years have seen the rise of fresh running companies such as RAD, Hylo Athletics and Tracksmith, all of which have successfully fostered a loyal community built around a distinct ethos.
Clogs, too, could stick around for longer. Crocs seems to be ramping up its fashion collaborations, especially with former Reebok designer Ryan Forsyth spearheading its collaboration and special projects initiatives.
This, coupled with refined versions of its iconic clog, including models like the Dylan and Mellow, is evidence of the brand working to tap new audiences.
Meanwhile, Birkenstock is poised to go public in the US – a promising indicator of the brand’s longevity.
Can this online sneaker store from Hong Kong compete with StockX and Goat?
Can this online sneaker store from Hong Kong compete with StockX and Goat?
As is the nature of fashion, what’s old can become new again. It wouldn’t be surprising to see a revival of the “lifestyle runners” that gained immense popularity between 2010-2014, characterised by vibrant, creative designs like the Asics Gel Lyte III and New Balance 997.
Additionally, vintage football models, such as the Nike Total 90 and Adidas Predator, might soon grace the fashion-week streets, aligning well with the burgeoning “bloke-core” trend.
What’s likely to remain less vibrant is the market for famous pairs of sneakers worn by celebrities.
The coronavirus pandemic intensified this market, culminating in a landmark event in 2021: the first sneaker sale crossing the US$1 million mark, when Kanye West’s 2008 Nike Air Yeezy 1 Grammy Prototype – which the rapper wore to the 2008 Grammys – fetched an astonishing US$1.8 million at auction.
In another auction later that year, the Michael Jordan’s Game-Worn Nike Air Ships – worn by the basketball star early in his career – fetched US$1.47 million.
However, just two years after their record-breaking sales, these two pairs of sneakers plummeted in value, underscoring the volatile nature of collectibles.
The buyer of the Yeezy 1, a platform called Rares that allows investors to co-own collectibles through shares, took a more than US$1.6 million loss when the sneakers were auctioned again for around US$180,000 in August. The Air Ships, meanwhile, only fetched US$624,000 (including a 22 per cent buyer’s premium), a loss of nearly US$850,000, when auctioned in September.
From their humble beginnings as functional athletic wear to becoming cultural symbols and luxury items, sneakers continue to evolve, reflecting the zeitgeist of their times.
As the industry advances, with emerging brands challenging the titans and fashion cyclically reintroducing past trends, one thing remains constant: the sneaker’s enduring impact on global culture.
As we move forward, the fusion of comfort, technology, sustainability and aesthetics will undoubtedly continue to define this dynamic industry.
