Pootling along at six miles an hour was pure pleasure. Not least because, standing at the controls of our cabin cruiser, I faced a choice of three settings: slow, slower and stop.
The previous day we’d boarded the overnight ferry from Portsmouth to St Malo with our two boys, Noah, 11, and Hector, eight. ‘It will be an adventure,’ I promised them.
Our destination was Messac, just two hours’ drive away, where we took possession of our floating home and began a family holiday on the canals of Brittany.
Messac is a medieval town at the hub of an extensive network of canals that spin an enchanting and spidery web throughout the region.
The idea was to explore La France Profonde and read improving novels. Our sons, meanwhile, would delight in the bucolic charms of the countryside.
Pure pleasure: Ticky Hedley-Dent enjoys a canal boat holiday in Brittany with Le Boat
Ahead of the holiday, Ticky wonders how her two ‘energetic boys’ will manage passing through ‘all those terrifying locks’. Pictured: A flight of locks at the Canal de Nantes a Brest, part of the family’s journey
But how would two energetic boys manage in a confined space? What about them falling overboard? Never mind passing through all those terrifying locks. But we had a secret weapon aboard: we had invited along our friend, Dave, who’s an old canal hand.
Messac is home to Le Boat, a company operating a fleet of pleasure cruisers, and it was here that Francois introduced us to our six-person vessel. Just 12m long by 4m wide, it contained everything we needed: three en-suite cabins, a salon and well-equipped kitchen.
Francois chose to direct all his instructions at my husband, Dan, in a display of Gallic chauvinism. Still, his tutorial didn’t take long.
Ticky starts her tour in the medieval town of Messac, before heading onto Redon (pictured)
Above, Redon’s ‘elegant’ 17th-century half-timbered houses
As we faced our first lock, our new-found knowledge was put to the test. Dan manoeuvred us in while the boys kept watch. It was left to Dave and I to stand at either end of the boat and lob the mooring ropes to the lock-keeper. Then, once the chamber had emptied and the gates opened, we could move on. Easy-breezy!
By the end of our first day, we found our shoulders had dropped and we could enjoy the scenery. As early evening fell, we spotted an otter having a swim.
Our itinerary would take us in a leisurely circle westwards to the pretty town of La Gacilly – all stone cottages and twisty streets. We would cruise down the River Vilane, enter the Canal de Nantes à Brest and the River Aff, before returning to Messac.
Ship shape: Ticky, with husband Dan, and their boys Noah, 11, and Hector, eight
Brittany’s extensive canals are the legacy of the Napoleonic wars. Because the British Navy had blockaded the French ports, canals became the only way to move supplies around.
An ambitious programme of building ensued, with many canals dug by prisoners of war.
The unhurried pace of life on the water meant we could really appreciate the charms of the countryside. That’s when we weren’t busy waving. They’re a friendly lot, canal folk. We soon got used to the etiquette of hailing fellow boaters, cyclists and walkers on the towpath.
Ticky stops in the town of La Gacilly (pictured), which is ‘all stone cottages and twisty streets’
We had one gripe. Popular destinations such as La Gacilly could quickly become overcrowded. Pitch up late and you ran the risk of not getting a berth.
Our first stop was the ancient port of Redon, with its elegant 17th-century half-timbered houses. We docked to stock up at the supermarket.
One of the trickiest moments was easing into a tight berth at La Gacilly, but Dan managed with the help of a friendly French couple in the next-door boat.
That afternoon we explored the town, taking in its photography festival before beginning our journey back along the Aff.
Our best night was spent at Ile-Aux-Pies, a beauty spot known for its sheer cliffs and islets.
Mooring before sunset, we fired up the barbecue and, sipping the local white wine, watched climbers scale the granite cliffs.
Our best memory? A leisurely lunch at La Belle Vilaine, in Sainte-Anne-sur-Vilaine, where the proprietor, Laurent, served us langoustines, mussels and lamb, and sauvignon blanc from his vineyard.
Back in Messac, preparing to say adieu to Brittany, we all agreed it had indeed been an adventure. And to top it all an otter came out for a twilight swim.
