Vegan food in London gets a Cantonese twist: say hello to dumplings made by former graphic designer and her Hong Kong chef father

“I prefer being outside on my feet, moving around and talking to people and found it really hard to be sitting down on a computer all the time,” she says, “I wanted to leave and go into hospitality, which I grew up in and is much more interesting to me.”

Chantel Yeung, founder of Chubby Dumpling, and her father, Joseph Yeung Wai-hung, in their converted fire engine. Photo: Chubby Dumpling

Yeung spent much of her youth in the Chinese restaurant her Hong Kong-born father owned in Salisbury, southern England.

She and her two siblings “grew up quite involved” in the business and would go during the summer holidays to help with chores such as “folding napkins and putting chopsticks in holders”, she says.

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“We would always eat there and spend every Sunday together, which is my dad’s one day off in the week.

“He’d make us dim sum and wontons, and I just loved them so much as a kid that he started calling me a ‘chubby dumpling’,” she laughs.

“I was a little fat kid.”

Joseph Yeung making dumpling paste. Photo: Chubby Dumpling

After 31 years of running the restaurant, Joseph Yeung Wai-hung retired and got into making dumplings.

“He was just so restless and was talking about opening another restaurant, so I convinced him to start a little business with me,” says Yeung.

“I figured a street food van would be less hectic than going into another full-time restaurant.”

I don’t think he’d ever be able to retire fully. He just needed a change but he’s classic Hong Kong – grew up working and wants to work all the time

Chantel Yeung

And so the father’s childhood nickname for his daughter carried over into her adult venture – in 2018, she bought a 1992 fire engine and a year later converted it into a food van she named Chubby Dumpling to serving her favourite childhood foods – handmade by her father – to crowds all over London.

In its first year, Yeung kept her design job while operating the food van two to three days a week at different markets.

She went full-time in 2020 as Chubby Dumpling began to receive more events catering requests.

Yeung making dumplings. Photo: Chubby Dumpling

Now, the van appears at the same London markets almost every weekend – Saturdays at Brockley Market and Sundays at Victoria Park Market. “Sometimes we’d have office lunches during the week, but mainly it’s events, festivals and work parties, especially in the summer. It’s fun getting to go to different places,” Yeung says.

Chubby Dumpling has turned up at places including the Natural History Museum, Formula One motor races, music festivals and even a Nike shoe launch event.

Since there is limited space to cook in a food van, Chubby Dumpling’s menu is limited to dumplings and noodles, with the three dumpling options being pork, chicken and mushroom, and vegan. Sometimes there will also be a special dish, depending on “what Dad is making”, such as prawn and bamboo shoot dumplings, Yeung says.

“My dad knew we needed to make vegan dumplings to fit the Western market, but because he wouldn’t normally eat vegan food and his way of cooking has always been using meat for flavour, it wasn’t easy to recipe-test.”
Yeung and her father making dumplings together. After 31 years of running the restaurant, Joseph Yeung retired and got into making dumplings. Photo: Chubby Dumpling

Her English mother, on the other hand, has a more Western palate and was able to help the father-daughter duo co-create a vegan recipe of pan-Asian flavours. The vegan fillings include butternut squash with satay flavouring and shiitake mushroom.

Yeung divulges that “it took a long time to make delicious vegan dumplings”, but once they achieved it, the dumplings became extremely popular with Londoners who follow a plant-based diet.

“Every restaurant in London has to do some kind of vegan food, so it’s about finding options that don’t taste like mashed up vegetables,” Yeung says.

The food truck is currently geared to catering for the people working on film sets of production companies such as Pinewood Studios and Warner Brothers. Because the meals are prepaid with a set headcount, which usually varies from 100 to 600, there is little wastage at the end of the day.

Customers queue to buy from Chubby Dumpling in London. Photo: Chubby Dumpling
On February 6 and 7, the pair will host their first bricks-and-mortar pop-up, featuring an exclusive Lunar New Year set menu, at a London restaurant. “It’s more full-on dishes of mainly fish and seafood, including lobster, scallop and ox cheek, which my dad likes to eat,” Yeung says.

Limited tickets for the two-day pop-up went on sale on January 12, and all had been bought within 10 minutes. Yeung tells the Post she “wasn’t sure what to expect”, as she had never hosted an event of this nature, but is glad how well Londoners have responded to Chubby Dumpling.

She adds: “My dad really enjoys coming up with new menus, so I want to see how this goes and see if we should do more. It’s nice to have some variety, especially since we need to be indoors in this English winter weather.”

Yeung and her father pose with their Chubby Dumpling food truck. Photo: Chubby Dumpling

As for her father, who was supposed to retire from hospitality but now makes dumplings full time, Yeung says: “I don’t think he’d ever be able to retire fully. He just needed a change because he’d had that restaurant for 31 years, but he’s classic Hong Kong – grew up working and wants to work all the time.

“It’s his strong work ethic and mentality of always doing something.”

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