Korean theatre restaurant’s Shakespeare-inspired menu a runaway success, even outlasting King Lear run it was meant for

“The contrast between the crunchy shell and the tender shrimp mirrors the complex duality of the character,” Park Sun-woo, head chef of Central Yunit, says.

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The second daughter, Regan, is captured with a red cannoli.

“Regan’s cannoli is made with a blackish-red shell, tinted with beet to lend a touch of glamour, reflecting her winning of Edmund’s love. Filled with cream cheese and a whole blueberry, the filling bursts from the shell, symbolising the eruption of deep-seated human desires,” Park says.

The youngest daughter and King Lear’s favourite, Cordelia, is represented by a ratatouille in a black tart shell, topped with grated cheese.

“The choice of ratatouille is inspired by her marriage to the French king. This amuse-bouche is warmer than the two others, highlighting the dutiful and sweet character of Cordelia,” he says.

King Lear’s three daughters (from left): Goneril, Regan and Cordelia, in a scene from Lear by the National Changgeuk Company of Korea. Photo: courtesy of the National Changgeuk Company of Korea

The main course features octopus and black squid ink pasta, visualising King Lear’s downfall, inspired by the changgeuk adaptation’s innovative set design, which used water to represent the emotional and physical landscape of the characters.

Park drew inspiration from the dark, eerie elements of the sea, as well as images of death and mythical krakens, for the octopus leg dish.

“While reviewing video of Lear, I was particularly struck by the set’s black tones and the use of water, which inspired me to mirror these elements in this dish,” he explains.

“For the characters, I decided to focus on the symbolic elements of the characters and distilled them into simple yet impactful dishes.”

Black Ade is inspired by Goneril, the eldest daughter of King Lear. Photo: courtesy of Central Yunit
The bitter Negroni, symbolic of King Lear’s downfall, with an orange peel garnish representing his crown. Photo: Central Yunit

Complementing the dishes are three themed drinks. The Cosmopolitan cocktail, crowned with bubbles, represents Edmund’s insatiable thirst for power.

The bitter Negroni, symbolic of King Lear’s descent into disgrace, features an orange peel garnish representing his crown and is accompanied by a lit cinnamon stick to enhance its aroma.

The non-alcoholic Black Ade pays homage to Goneril, who poisons her sister Regan. This black mojito symbolises the lethal potion and is visually striking, served over dry ice to create a dramatic smoky effect.

The meal, which includes three amuse-bouches, a main dish and a drink of choice, costs 35,000 Korean won (US$26). Originally intended to be served during the nine-day run of Lear, which began on March 29, the popularity of the menu has led to its extension throughout April.

Central Yunit is inside the National Theatre of Korea. Photo: courtesy of Central Yunit

“Since our restaurant is located within the National Theatre of Korea, many theatregoers seem to enjoy this type of collaboration between theatre and dining,” Park says, adding that sales of the special menu soared before and after the show.

Lee Hyun-joo, contents director at Yunit, emphasises the restaurant’s commitment to innovation.

“Yunit serves as a venue for food and culture. This is one of the reasons why we’ve implemented the [farm to table] system in our restaurants and cafes to supply fresh produce directly,” Lee says.

Central Yunit plans to continue its collaboration with the National Theatre of Korea, promising more performances transformed into gastronomic delights.

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