When it comes to Mediterranean food, mezze is one of the best-loved ways to enjoy all the different flavours from each region, with fresh local produce at the centre of vibrant, spice-laden recipes.
This is something chef Athanasios Kargatzidis has managed to successfully explore and deliver in his latest outpost, located in a coveted corner spot of Harrods’ revamped Food Hall in Central London.
Mediterranean Grill by Assembly joins a colourful portfolio that includes “fusion cooking” eateries BARON in Beirut and Doha, and Costa Fria in the Portuguese coastal town of Ericeira.
Decorated in harmony with the sumptuous hall, marble tables and a splendid counter are paired with neutral ceramic dishes and unfussy silver cutlery, which add a contrast of simple sophistication to the general ambiance of grandeur.
But the real star of the show is the menu, with the smoothest, most flavourful hummus I’ve ever tasted, which combined spiced prawn and crab in a delicious way that didn’t overpower the traditional chickpea spread.
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The scallop and roe, served straight from the grill and beautifully presented in a half shell was a highlight, marrying the fresh seafood flavour with an umami miso butter, shoyu, sesame spring onions and lemon.
The service gets extra points for whipping up a delicious spiced little gem and burnt aubergine pureé at the table, despite the bustling surroundings and a surprisingly fast table turnover. This ensured not only maximum freshness, but also added a fun surprise factor.
After starting off strong with some amazing starters, I was served the sirloin steak, which was cooked to perfection and accompanied with some spiced herbed butter. Even though I wasn’t asked how I wanted it cooked – something I must admit I’m pretty inflexible about as an Argentinian – this dish was served up medium-well and straight from the grill to the table.
The chicken was a very pleasant surprise and at first bite became another favourite of the meal. I don’t often trust a restaurant to serve up a simple-yet-properly seasoned chicken breast, but this was very juicy and doused in marinade, while perfectly grilled and slightly crispy on the outside.
This dish in particular paired incredibly with the heirloom tomatoes and tuna tonnato, which acted as a refreshing palate cleanser among and the other generously spiced dishes.
A meal this sensational could only be complete with an equally impressive dessert, and Merry Cream, the restaurant manager’s personal recommendation, was the perfect finishing touch.
As with many of the dishes here, this dessert wasn’t just incredibly appealing aesthetically but the flavours were absolutely immaculate, shining a spotlight on the delicious ice cream, with that characteristic fluffy and creamy soft serve texture.
It dish was taken to another level with walnut baklava, a hint of extra virgin olive oil and a light sprinkling of Maldon salt to tone down the sweetness.
This incredible dessert brought all the flavours together while allowing each to standing out with their it’s distinctive features. As I told my guest at the time, this dessert alone is worth paying the food hall a visit – and I think I will do just that in the near future.
The portions were generous enough to share two or three plates between two people. However, for solo diners looking to try different dishes, the lunch set menu offers an opportunity to mix and match two or three courses for £35 or £42 respectively.
