By Ali Slagle, The New York Times
When the summer sky softens and the grill’s embers flicker, dinner anticipation builds — especially when vegetables are what’s over the coals, curled in smoke. As their colorful outsides singe and their plump bodies slump, vegetables’ vibrant selves become substantial, rich and nuanced. Sugars caramelize, edges char, a whisper of smoke appears. The grill can create satisfying vegetarian meals by sizzling out moisture and teasing out deep, dark flavors. And yet a plate of grilled vegetables does not a meal make.
Follow these recipes and apply their lessons to other dishes for plant-based mains that are filling, fun to eat and a friend to summer’s bounty — and to you.
Soba Salad With Grilled Mushrooms and Tofu
By Ali Slagle
Throw together this exciting tangle of soba noodles, grilled mushrooms and tofu, raw vegetables and maple-miso dressing for your next picnic or warm-weather dinner. Hitting mushrooms and tofu with a little heat accentuates the nutty quality of the soba, while snap peas, serrano chile and herbs give this plant-based salad a juicy crunch. Lime juice, miso and maple work double duty as the salad’s dressing and the tofu’s marinade, which chars once it hits the grill. To mitigate the tofu sticking to the grill, maintain medium-high heat and let the tofu release itself from the grates instead of prying it off. To save time, prep the vegetables while the grill heats, or marinate the tofu and cook the soba up to a day ahead and refrigerate until needed.
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 65 minutes
Ingredients
- Salt
- 1 (14- to 16-ounce) block extra-firm tofu
- 3 limes, juiced (about 6 tablespoons)
- 3 tablespoons neutral oil, such as grapeseed, plus more for greasing
- 3 tablespoons white miso
- 3 tablespoons maple syrup
- 8 ounces mushrooms (any type), trimmed into large, bite-size pieces
- 8 ounces soba noodles
- 8 ounces sugar snap peas or snow peas, halved lengthwise
- 1/2 to 1 serrano chile, finely chopped
- 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
- 1 cup basil, cilantro or mint leaves, or a combination, torn if large
Preparation
1. Heat a grill to medium-high. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, cut the tofu in half lengthwise, then slice crosswise into 6 sections. (You’ll have 12 squares total.) Pat the tofu dry. In a large bowl, use a fork to stir together the lime juice, oil, miso and maple syrup until smooth. Add the tofu and turn to coat. On a sheet pan, toss the mushrooms with enough oil to coat, about 2 tablespoons; season generously with salt.
2. When the water’s boiling, add the soba noodles and cook according to package directions. Drain, rinse under cold water until cool, then shake the colander to remove as much water as possible. Toss with a little oil to keep from sticking. Set aside.
3. Clean and grease the grates. Grill the tofu (closed if using a gas grill) until it releases from the grates and grill marks appear, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Return the tofu to the bowl of dressing. While the tofu’s grilling, grill the mushrooms, turning occasionally, until browned and tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Return the mushrooms to the sheet pan and head back inside.
4. To the bowl of tofu, add the soba, snap peas, mushrooms, chile, sesame seeds and basil. Use your hands to toss gently. Season to taste with salt.
Barbecue Vegetable Salad
By Ali Slagle
This knife-and-fork dinner salad is full of char and crunch, topped off with a festive dressing to incorporate into your summer repertoire. It’s also an ideal way to use up any grillable vegetables. On a verdant bed of romaine lettuce, kale and cilantro, pile on grilled summer vegetables and peaches and a shower of corn chips. Beans add protein, though you could also top with quinoa, grilled tempeh bacon or another protein. While barbecue sauce doesn’t often coat lettuce, here it becomes a tangy, thick and pleasantly sweet salad dressing with the addition of a little lime juice to loosen and brighten. If you have some ranch in the fridge, drizzle zig-zags of it on top, too; the duo tastes like an herb-flecked Thousand Island dressing. Eat this big salad solo or with a side of cornbread.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 50 minutes
Ingredients
- 1 bunch lacinato kale (about 9 ounces), stems removed and leaves thinly sliced
- Salt and black pepper
- 1 head romaine, thinly sliced
- 1/2 bunch cilantro, leaves and tender stems thinly sliced
- 1/2 cup store-bought or homemade barbecue sauce
- 1/4 cup fresh lime juice (from 2 limes)
- 1 (15-ounce) can white beans, drained and rinsed
- 2 ripe, firm peaches, cut into 1-inch-thick wedges
- 1 red onion, cut into 1/2-inch-thick wedges through the root
- 1 pound grilling vegetables (see Tip)
- Neutral oil such as grapeseed, for greasing
- Handful of crushed corn chips
Preparation
1. Heat the grill to medium-high. In a large shallow bowl or platter, sprinkle the kale with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Squeeze with your hands until shiny and softened. Add the romaine and cilantro and toss to coat. Set aside. In a small bowl, stir together the barbecue sauce and lime juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. In a separate small bowl, stir together the beans and 2 tablespoons of the barbecue-lime mixture. On a sheet pan or large bowl, toss the peaches, onion and vegetables with enough oil to coat. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Clean and grease the grates. Grill the peaches and vegetables until charred and tender, 2 to 10 minutes, depending on the density and size of the vegetables. If using a gas grill, close the grill between flips. Return to the bowl or sheet pan and head back inside.
3. Drizzle some of the dressing over the greens, then arrange the grilled vegetables, peaches, beans and chips on top. Drizzle with more dressing. Eat right away, with any remaining dressing and additional chips alongside.
Tips
This salad tastes good with any number of vegetables, including zucchini, eggplant, carrots, green beans, mushrooms, peppers and radishes, so use what you have, or what looks good to you. Cut the vegetables into pieces that are large enough so they don’t slip through the grates. For small or slender vegetables, like snap peas or green beans, leave them whole.
Stuffed Pepper Tacos
Recipe from Bricia Lopez
Adapted by Ali Slagle
With just a single charred pepper stuffed with gooey cheese and herbs, this taco encuerado (or “naked taco”) proves that simplicity is often best — you don’t even need salsa. This recipe, which was adapted from “Asada: The Art of Mexican-Style Grilling” (Abrams, 2023) by Bricia Lopez with Javier Cabral, is inspired by the chiles encuerados served at Cocina de Frida, a restaurant in Ocotlán de Morelos, Oaxaca. The restaurant’s chiles de agua, small, medium-hot heirloom chiles, are considered naked because they don’t have a batter like other chiles rellenos. Ms. Lopez likes to use Anaheim or mild Hatch chiles, which are sweet with a subtle kick, then finishes them with just a sprinkle of olive oil and flaky salt to brighten. — ALI SLAGLE
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 45 minutes
Ingredients
- 8 Anaheim or mild Hatch chiles
- Flaky sea salt
- 8 ounces queso Oaxaca, pulled into thin pieces (see Tip for alternatives)
- 16 fresh epazote leaves, plus more finely chopped for garnish (see Tip for alternatives)
- 8 flour tortillas, ideally homemade
- Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Preparation
1. Heat a grill to medium-high. Starting at the stem of the chiles, cut a 3-inch slit lengthwise. Using gloved hands or a fork, carefully pluck out the ribs and seeds as best you can. Shake the chile to get out any more. Sprinkle the insides with salt. Stuff the chiles with the cheese and two epazote leaves per chile. Close the chiles and bring together their edges over the cheese.
2. Add the chiles to the grill cut sides down. (Don’t worry; the cheese won’t be melty enough yet to slide out.) Grill until browned, 3 to 5 minutes, top closed if using a gas grill. Continue to grill, turning occasionally, until completely charred, tender and puffy, another 5 to 8 minutes. (It’s helpful to arrange the chiles parallel to the grates to keep them from rolling around.) Set aside to cool slightly, then use your fingers to remove most of the blackened outside.
3. While the chiles are cooling, warm the tortillas over the flame, just a minute per side. Serve the chiles on top of the tortillas. Sprinkle with chopped epazote, flaky salt and a drizzle of olive oil.
Tips
Queso Oaxaca is salty, milky, melty and available at Latin supermarkets; you could also use fresh salted mozzarella, Monterey Jack or Chihuahua cheese. Fresh epazote is floral and citrusy; in its place, try fresh cilantro and, if you have them, a pinch of dried epazote or dried Mexican oregano.
Grilled Corn Panzanella
By Ali Slagle
Panzanella, the Tuscan bread salad of bread, tomatoes, oil, vinegar, basil, is already peak summer cooking, but this grilled, summer produce-heavy rendition might be even more so. The dish is best in the summer when tomatoes are at their juiciest, which is exactly when you don’t want to turn on the oven to toast bread. But dry bread is the key to the salad’s deliciousness because it soaks up the tomato juices and vinaigrette for a mix of crisp and soft bites. So head outside to the grill: Charring the bread brings a nutty, smoky edge to the sweet tomatoes, corn and cucumbers. Add mozzarella, too, for creaminess, or make the salad vegan by replacing the mozzarella with white beans.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings (12 cups)
Total time: 50 minutes
Ingredients
- 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing
- 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
- 8 ounces fresh mozzarella, torn into roughly 1-inch pieces
- 1 1/2 pounds ripe tomatoes, cut into roughly 1-inch pieces, or 2 pints cherry tomatoes, halved
- 2 Persian or mini seedless cucumbers, cut 1/4 inch thick
- 1 shallot, thinly sliced
- Salt and black pepper
- 1 (12-ounce) loaf sourdough or rustic bread, sliced 1 inch thick
- 3 ears of corn, shucked
- 20 basil leaves, torn if large
Preparation
1. Heat a grill to medium-high. In a very large bowl, stir together the oil, vinegar and mozzarella. Place a large colander or sieve on top of the mozzarella mixture. Add the tomatoes, cucumbers and shallot to the colander and season generously with salt, about 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal or 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt. Stir to coat. Set aside to allow the tomato and cucumber juices to form a vinaigrette with the oil and vinegar beneath.
2. On a sheet pan, brush the bread and corn all over with oil. Season with salt and pepper. Head outside with the sheet pan and tongs.
3. Grill the corn, turning occasionally, until browned in spots, 10 to 12 minutes. Grill the bread until crisp and charred in spots, 1 to 3 minutes per side. (Watch closely; bread likes to burn.) Return ingredients to the sheet pan as they finish, then head back inside.
4. Shake the colander of tomatoes and cucumbers to get all the juices in the bowl, then set the colander aside in the sink. Tear the bread into 1-inch pieces and cut the kernels off the cobs. To the bowl of mozzarella, add the bread, corn, tomatoes, cucumbers, shallots and basil and toss to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve right away or let sit, stirring occasionally, for up to 30 minutes.
Corn Grits With Charred Peppers and Broccoli
By Ali Slagle
For a cozy and produce-packed dinner, top cheesy, corn-studded grits with grilled peppers and broccoli. To pull it off without racing between the outdoor grill and the indoor stove, build a two-zone grill — with one side heated, one not — and think of the unheated side as a back burner. Its gentle heat will gradually cook the grits while the vegetables soften and char over the flames. A squeeze of grilled lemon lifts the smoky flavors, but feel free to also add chopped parsley or basil, or a shake of hot sauce for spice. For pot recommendations, see Tip.
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 1 hour
Ingredients
- 2 bell peppers, seeds removed and cut into 1-inch strips
- 1 head broccoli, cut through the stem into thin, long spears
- 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for greasing
- Salt and black pepper
- 2 1/2 cups whole milk
- 1 cup quick-cooking grits
- 1 cup fresh or frozen, unthawed corn kernels
- 1/2 lemon, seeds removed
- 1 cup (4 ounces) grated sharp cheddar
- 1 garlic clove, finely chopped or grated
Preparation
1. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for two-zone cooking over medium-high heat. (For a charcoal grill, pour the coals on one side. For a gas grill, leave one burner off.)
2. In a large bowl, toss the peppers, broccoli and oil until coated. Season with salt and pepper. Into a medium, oven-safe saucepan, pour the milk, 2 1/2 cups of water and a big pinch of salt. On the stovetop, bring the milk mixture to a simmer over medium-high, then gradually stir in the grits and corn. (You can do this over the grill’s flame; it will just take longer.) Bring the saucepan, vegetables, lemon, spoon, tongs and potholders to the grill. (A sheet pan makes a sturdy tray.)
3. Transfer the saucepan to the unheated part of the grill. Stir occasionally while the vegetables cook. Grill the peppers and broccoli over the flame (direct heat), turning occasionally, until the peppers are soft and wrinkled and the broccoli is crisp-tender, 8 to 12 minutes. If using a gas grill, cover the grill. As they finish, return them to the bowl. Grill the cut side of the lemon until charred, 1 to 3 minutes. Head back inside with the grits, vegetables and lemon.
4. Stir the cheddar into the grits. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If the grits are thick, thin with water until desired consistency. Add the garlic to the peppers and broccoli and squeeze the lemon over top. Toss to coat, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve the grits topped with the vegetables.
Tips
A cast-iron, carbon steel or other oven-safe pot can withstand the grill’s heat; if you’re using a light-colored vessel, like stainless steel, wrap the bottom with foil to avoid smoke stains.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.