Having earned an MA in the anthropology of food, in 2023 writer and lecturer Annabel Jackson was awarded a PhD in Macau gastronomy. She spoke to Andrew Sun.
Growing up in a farming family in the south of England, I was surrounded by great produce, though not great cooks. I turned vegetarian at a young age, so it was critical that I learned my away around in the kitchen as well as the garden.
Our big event is back for its 27th edition, and takes place on May 6 at the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong.
I spend a lot of time in Macau and am saddened both by closures and often by falling standards. An exception is the long-standing, friendly and consistently reliable Litoral (Rua do Almirante Sergio, 261A, Macau. Tel: +853 2896 7878), a Macanese restaurant now in the hands of the family’s second generation.
Portuguese dishes are also served – and it is not always clear which is which – but I love the Macanese crab curry with quail egg, and the minchi (a ground meat and vegetable stir-fry) here is a great introduction to this Macanese classic.
After lunch, stroll to Pousada de Sao Tiago (Avenida Da Republica, Fortaleza De Sao Tiago Da Barra, Macau. Tel: +853 2837 8111), a 17th century fortress transformed into a luxury hotel. It was closed for a while, but is now slowly reopening – at least for drinks and snacks. It is a gorgeous spot for a coffee.
Portuguese restaurant Mariazinha (G/F, 8 Rue de Santa Filomena, Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, Macau. Tel: +853 2835 7558) is always full of locals. The seafood rice – a wet rice dish which is rightly famous in Portugal – is fantastic, as well as other seafoods like grilled octopus.
A discovery is the oh-so-casual SoSabi (Rua Formosa, Macau. Tel: +853 6257 4289), a kind of speakeasy without menus. It is less about chefs and more about cooks.
Elias Colaco, who can trace his family history in Goa across centuries, heads the kitchen. He makes mostly Portuguese and Goan food – including a wonderful Goa fish curry – but he is also working on vegan dishes.
For celebrations, my go-to is two-Michelin-star Wing Lei Palace (West Esplanade, G/F, Wynn Macau, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau. Tel: +853 8889 3663). The Cantonese food is as elegant as the interior. Their tea sommelier adds to the experience and the peaceful ambience.
At a recent lunch, I admired the wok-fried pork rib with tangerine peel, tea-smoked chicken, and crispy Macau sole.
Many old favourites are here, but they have also introduced contemporary interpretations: the cheese truffle naan alone is worth a visit for.
In London, Neal’s Yard in the Covent Garden area has become a gourmet destination all by itself, with The Barbary (16 Neal’s Yard Covent Garden, Saint Giles, London. Tel: +44 7770 381125), serving inventive Northern African cuisine.
Across the street, in Seven Dials Market, is an extraordinary vision. Pick & Cheese: The Cheese Bar (16 Short’s Gardens, London. Tel: +44 7723 039600) operates like a moving sushi counter but showcases small plates of high-quality British cheese, each one paired with a surprising side dish.
