The Family Jones Spirit House reopens after renovations

After a two-month closure, The Family Jones Spirit House reopened in November to reveal an updated space. The LoHi bar and distillery, which has been in operation for seven years, now has a more cozy lounge vibe, making guests feel like they’re in a “living room.”

Where booths once stood in the center of the venue, 3245 Osage St., there are now cognac-colored armchairs and side tables, creating an open layout and allowing for easier flow of movement. But the more exciting updates are found on the distillery’s new musically-inspired menu, developed by lead bartender Tabatha “Tabby” Klocke.

“I spent a few nights in the renovation space listening to my music and trying to envision what this place could become. I thought, ‘How could I bring the heart of the Highland vibe to it and convey what the family is?’” Klocke said, referring to the company’s ethos. “Then, it struck me that every family has a playlist. I thought about vacations with my brothers and the music we listened to, and that’s what inspired the menu.”

The Family Jones Spirt House in Denver makes a cocktail using duck fat. (Sara Rosenthal/Special to The Denver Post)

That ‘playlist’ includes drinks like the Overtime (by Zach Bryan), a riff on a Vieux Carré from New Orleans featuring a duck fat washed rye whiskey, sweet vermouth and bitters. To make it, Klocke fat washes the whiskey in 20-gallon batches. She sources the duck fat from Morgan Nelson, who owns the Cosmic Coyote food truck.

“I called Morgan because he’s a chef that knows his way around ducks and has been confiting forever. He was all for it, so I went over to get the fat,” she recounted. “To make the wash, I heat the duck fat, then mix it with whiskey. After letting it sit for a couple of hours to infuse, I freeze the mixture, allowing the fat to rise and solidify at the top. Once that happens, I strain the clarified mixture for the finished product.”

Another standout is She’s A Lady, named after the classic Tom Jones song. This creative twist on a dirty martini uses celery bitters and spicy carrot brine in place of the traditional olives to achieve a delightfully tangy, savory flavor – served with a side of chips for the salt. Klocke also experiments with whimsical garnishes like a cotton candy topping which dissolves into glitter.

The Family Jones Spirit House in Denver makes a cocktail called She's A Lady. It comes with pickled carrot brine, celery bitters, vodka and dry vermouth. (Sara Rosenthal/Special to The Denver Post)
The Family Jones Spirit House in Denver makes a cocktail called She’s A Lady. It comes with pickled carrot brine, celery bitters, vodka and dry vermouth. (Sara Rosenthal/Special to The Denver Post)

She credits her husband, chef Chris Klocke, with helping to refine her ideas, ensuring that the drinks not only taste great but are also feasible for large-scale production. And she attributes her creativity to her nine-year-old son.

“My son keeps me inspired and dreaming. For example, I thought if the cotton candy machine [for the drink garnishes] didn’t work out, I’d just be the coolest mom and bring it to every party and school function,” she shared.

Klocke’s journey with The Family Jones began through her cocktail mix company, Bootleg Betty. In April, while searching for a vodka sponsor for the Bolder Boulder run where she was serving her signature Bootleg Betty Bloody Marys, The Family Jones stepped in to provide the alcohol. Now, some of Bootleg Betty’s mixes are even featured on the menu, like the Baby It’s Cold Outside, a whiskey drink on the holiday menu featuring her Apple Smash mix (made with Western Slope apples, fresh ginger and homemade cinnamon syrup).

But her connection to the distillery runs even deeper. “I’ve been in the hospitality industry for 20 years and I used to operate a private bar service. Back in the day, Rob Masters [The Family Jones co-founder and head distiller] used to sell me wine and I’d buy all my supplies from him,” she said.

In addition to the aesthetic updates, the renovations at The Family Jones also include functional aspects like upgraded Wi-Fi and sound systems and a new food ordering system that allows tickets to print directly to the food trucks they’re partnering with.

“One of the fun parts of the renovation was that Tabby and I went out and tried food from eight or ten different trucks to find the best fit,” said Matt Reilly, president of operations for the distillery. “We’ve still got some irons in the fire. We’re exploring an omakase-style experience as well. [Our co-founder, Paul Tamburello] was inspired by a tasting menu he experienced on the West Coast that featured around 14 courses of small bites with intentionally paired cocktails.”

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