Showing a pre-fall collection after the fall runway collection is becoming a “thing” among European brands, though Chemena Kamali has a unique reason: She wanted her debut Chloé show last March during Paris Fashion Week to be her first statement of intent, not the range quietly shown to buyers last December with a strict no-photos … Read more
Philipp Plein offered a remote walkthrough to introduce his brand’s latest collection, joining a video call directly from his car as he was leaving Spain after a fruitful business trip. The Spanish touchdown enabled him to check on his handful of stores across the country, with the one in Madrid giving him particularly encouraging stats as … Read more
In 2021, New York-based multidisciplinary artist Andrea Mary Marshall launched her debut luxury women’s fashion label, Salon 1994, exclusively with Neiman Marcus. Since then, she’s showcased seasonal collections; was named an interim member of the CFDA, and has expanded distribution with spring 2024 set to launch with Net-a-porter in February. For her latest pre-fall collection, … Read more
Johanna Ortiz is entering the New Year with her namesake label’s 20th anniversary on the horizon; she’s also planning to open her first global retail flagship in New York this summer. The impressive milestones have inspired the Colombian designer to look back on her brand’s history. “I’ve been going back and forth to the archives … Read more
During September’s New York Fashion Week, Retrofête cofounder and creative director Ohad Seroya and his partner Aviad Klin debuted their brand’s spring collection for the first time on the runway. But while Seroya looked to his childhood memories for that collection’s inspiration, he leaned into Ibiza-inspired escapism for his latest pre-fall lineup. Seroya described the … Read more
In September, storied Italian label Balestra, under the artistic direction of the late founder Renato Balestra’s granddaughter Sofia Bertolli Balestra, revealed its commitment to expanding internationally and focusing on the U.S. alongside its spring collection. Currently, the brand is selling at Switch in Los Angeles and Montaigne Market in St. Barths, and will soon be … Read more
When Nicola Brognano exited Blumarine at the end of 2023, a question mark hung on the fate of the Y2K aesthetic the Italian designer brought to the brand. The appointment of Walter Chiapponi as his successor suggests the label will likely pursue a more sophisticated, understated direction – one that’s so on-demand right now. Before … Read more
The introspective fashion phase of Alessandro Dell’Acqua is still in full swing, as the designer continued to creatively look inward to the No. 21 world rather than seeking references outside for inspiration. For pre-fall 2024, he reshuffled key codes of his fashion to serve a cool collection that ran the gamut from tomboy-ish attitude to … Read more
LONDON — The Copenhagen fashion scene considers sustainable slow fashion and wearability as its main pillars, but even for the Danes, there comes a time where there’s a need for speed. Remain’s new creative director Martin Asbjørn has learned just that. “My first collection was actually supposed to be for fall 2024 for which I’m … Read more
Understanding the body and it’s relationship to a garment is a core tenet of a fashion designer’s process. For Daniella Kallmeyer, it’s an organic conversation that evolves uniquely with each customer. “I think a lot about how our clothes change your posture, they change the way you stand,” she explained from her Lower East Side … Read more
