Junichi Abe shifted gears to a more singular vision for fall, exploring the idea of “masterpiece” in careful craft and tailoring. Abe’s penchant to play with layering remained, but it was mostly toned down and appeared as the core concept on only a handful of outfits. His reliance on patchwork and piling on items was … Read more
Recently in a mood to reduce fashion down to blunt components, Jonathan Anderson switched things up at his Loewe men’s show on Saturday, imposing readily-assembled looks, including roomy trench coats with a cable-knit sweater front and denim pant legs sewn right in. Here he mind-melded with Junya Watanabe, who also fused together jackets, pants and … Read more
Mihara Yasuhiro thinks he might be the world’s biggest collector of vintage clothes “probably after Nigel Cabourn,” he said through an interpreter when discussing the inspiration behind his fall collection backstage. “I have more vintage clothes than the vintage shops,” he said. His passion provided ample research material for a coed lineup built around multiple … Read more
What does George Lucas’ “Star Wars” have to do with Nigo’s Kenzo? During a preview at Kenzo’s showroom on the Rue Vivienne earlier this week, the Japanese designer lauded how Lucas and his costume designers took inspiration from kimonos, samurai armor and other Japanese elements, but so effectively blurred the references they didn’t telegraph any … Read more
Borderless, ambiguous and eccentric: those were the three words Juun.J offered up ahead of his fall collection. Through a translator, the South Korean designer said he’d started the season intent on dismantling all the delimitations within fashion such as gender, what kind of fabric is suitable for which usage and even blur the distinction between … Read more
Junya Watanabe gave the topcoat and the tweed jacket, two of the most ubiquitous styles of the men’s fall 2024 season in Europe, some of his inimitable funk, merging these two classic garments with pants and bits of trench coat. “Reconstructed suiting” was the theme, with the designer expressing a wish for men of different … Read more
“Nighthawks” took flight as 032c made its Paris runway debut under the soaring arches of a disused church on Rue Saint-Honoré with an almost reverent air. The palette was somber, mostly in black, midnight blue and an inky wine; the silhouette sleek and slinky. Berlin-based creative director Maria Koch opened an atelier last year to … Read more
As one of a handful of U.S. designers invited to show on the Paris Fashion Week Men’s calendar, Angelo Urrutia is in an enviable position, but one that comes with its share of conflicting emotions. On the one hand, his 4SDesigns label is gaining in visibility and prestige. On the other, he still struggles with … Read more
Is Lemaire the opposite of Louis Vuitton? While the latter’s western inspiration was unmissable, even in-your-face at its mega show on Tuesday night, the next morning design duo Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran paraded dark shirts with fancy embroidered collars, bolo ties that were abstracted versions of ring-on-chain jewelry and hand-drawn thistle prints dotted on … Read more
At Givenchy’s historic George V couture salons on Wednesday, Ruinart Champagne in fancy crystal coupes was ferried on silver trays as piano music tinkled. Tables were laden with madeleines and mini lobster sandwiches from the Ritz hotel, and small black serviettes with 4G logos were proffered with silver tongs. Less than three weeks after creative … Read more
