Deepening her collaboration with the Paris Opera Ballet, Aelis creative director Sofia Crociani was given access to the costume archives and came away with new shapes and textiles to work with for her largely upcycled and eco-friendly collection. She worked the vintage items, mostly cotton crinolines and petticoats, that she used to create a more … Read more
There was nary a princess dress in sight, and no bride either. Zuhair Murad paid tribute to Phoenicia, the ancestor of modern-day Lebanon, and its seafaring heritage in a collection of powerful shoulders, straight lines, draped silhouettes and a shipwreck’s hull full of bling to rival the display on his front row. Chain upon chain … Read more
London-based designer Sohee Park loves items with a past. “I always love very old things that have been neglected and I find beauty in them,” said this self-confessed magpie, who has amassed all manners of antique tchotchkes over the years. She channeled this into a spring collection where she translated mother-of-pearl jewelry boxes, a traditional … Read more
Elie Saab reminded us of his red carpet prowess by hosting Jennifer Lopez in the front row. The Lebanese master of shape and sparkle has dressed her “oh, like hundreds of times,” said Saab after the show, and she wanted to support her longtime friend. Lopez caused such commotion when she arrived in the room … Read more
Consider Pieter Mulier’s latest effort for Alaïa a powerful calling card for wool — and for widescreen creative expression within self-defined limits. The Belgian designer challenged himself to create a collection using only a single merino yarn, which is astonishing considering the garments that paraded through Alaïa’s Rue de Marignan boutique resembled denim, velvet, shearling … Read more
Juana Martín looked once again to Málaga, Spain, for her spring couture collection. This time, she recalled the dewy, flower-filled mornings typical of the Andalucian region. But these picturesque moments immortalized by artists such as Spanish Symbolist painter Julio Romero de Torres failed to translate into a compelling lineup. An initial graphic direction, with high-waisted … Read more
Imane Ayissi paid tribute to ancestral wardrobes — and to the female form — with a celebration of draping and layering inspired by the wrapped cloth worn in many parts of Africa, exploring “the link between the body and the cloth,” he said. The Cameroon-born designer often juxtaposes traditional dress fabrics like satin and taffeta … Read more
