Mr. Saturday creative director Joey Gollish wanted to both critique and co-opt the punk aesthetic for his fall collection.
Gollish worked from the thesis that The Sex Pistols’ legendary gig at Manchester’s Lesser Free Trade Hall in 1976 was the only moment punk truly existed – everything after it was an imitation.
So he imitated punk style on his own terms, distilling it down to big-shouldered shapes on jackets, white shirt-skinny black tie combos, and floor-sweeping pinstriped coats.
The ubiquitous Bank of America and MasterCard logos were tweaked with punk slogans for an anarchic edge. Elsewhere, Gollish took photos of political protests around the world and applied them on leather and knitwear using a gauzy new printing technique from Kornit.
A slim-cut trouser and trucker jacket combo rendered in a silk jacquard dotted with tiny roses was a fresh update on the suit. Gollish created the textile for a friend’s wedding in Italy before incorporating it into the collection.
The collection’s balance skewed more toward tailoring than the streetwear that marked the start of his career. It played perfectly into the current focus on classic cuts, and his ultra-long coat was spot on with this season’s trend.
Gollish does double duty at Canadian heritage brand Roots. The affiliation has helped up his textile game — and thus price point. The designer is aware that selling jackets upwards of $4,000 isn’t very punk, but said the collection’s elevation is the next step for brand growth as well as a commentary on the commercialization of punk.
What with Ramones T-shirts available at Walmart and credit card companies issuing plastic with the band’s signature artwork, among other ironic monetizations, it’s more punk to dress up. “Punk isn’t just about leather jackets and jeans,” he said. “[The collection] is like a DIY approach to trying to send your own message to people.”
The argument might be dubious, but the clothes were good.
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