Chef Carlo Lamagna’s journey has been full of twists and turns. But Denver has been in his plans for about a decade. Last month, those plans came to fruition when he opened Magna Kainan, a modern Filipino restaurant at the base of Novel RiNo, a luxury residential highrise.
Magna Kainan is a sister concept to his Portland-based restaurant, Magna Kusina, and is part of the Culinary Creative Group’s portfolio in Denver. The restaurant company counts A5 Steakhouse, Ash’Kara and Bar Dough and others among its concepts. It also recently opened Sorry Gorgeous – a chic new bar located on the rooftop of Novel RiNo, 1350 40th St.
Lamagna — a 2022 James Beard finalist and one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs in 2021 — was born in the Philippines and spent his childhood in Detroit before returning to his native country at age 11. He credits his experiences there – from handling and butchering whole animals on his grandma’s farm to watching his parents and sister cook – with shaping his approach to food.
“My sister cooked all the time. She would experiment with different recipes and watch the early days of the Food Network. She even taught me how to properly use a knife. When I learned to slice an onion really fast, for some reason that triggered my interest in cooking, and it snowballed from there,” Lamagna recalled.
After moving back to the United States at 20, Lamagna began seriously pursuing a restaurant career, graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in New York and then working at restaurants in Chicago and Portland, where he and his family still live.
The chef’s diverse culinary background is reflected at Magna Kainan, which offers a variety of Filipino staples like lumpia and adobo fried rice alongside modern twists on classic dishes.
“The majority of the menu is meant to be shared. I believe in the communal aspect of sharing food, creating that connection with whoever you’re dining with,” Lamagna said.
The adventurous menu starts with a variety of skewers ($7-12), Pulutan (snacks and appetizers ranging from $15-25), and Pandesal (traditional Filipino bread rolls served with bone marrow and chamoy guava butter). For heartier main courses, the “Ulam” section features centerpiece proteins paired with vegetables and rice. There is also a section for rice and noodle dishes.
“The number one dish for me is the Mom’s Crab Fat Noodles, inspired by the way my mom used to cook blue crabs when I was growing up. This dish really encapsulates my entire culinary career – from mastering pasta-making under an Italian chef, to incorporating the pickled corn and pepper ChowChow as a nod to my mentor in Chicago, and the family element from my mom.”
The Filipino influence also extends to the drink and dessert offerings with sweet treats like pandan cheesecake and ube sticky rice; mocktails and cocktails like the Ube Snack (made with Filipino rum, banana, ube and coconut); and a selection of wine and Filipino beers.
The chic yet comfortable atmosphere emphasizes Lamagna’s belief in the communal aspects of dining as well. Booths, tables and bar seating complement a large shared table in the center of the restaurant where diners can eat and connect. Cozy touches like indoor plants, wood and wicker accents, and warm lighting complete the space.
While Magna Kainan might have just debuted, Lamagna has had a longstanding love affair with the Mile High City.
In 2013, he won a cooking contest that led him to the Kentucky Derby in Louisville for the final round. It was there that he met acclaimed Denver chef Jen Jasinski and her husband, Max MacKissock, now the chief culinary officer of Culinary Creative. The following year, Lamagna made a pitstop in Denver during his move from Chicago to Portland, and MacKissock has been consistently trying to convince him to move to Denver.
“Max checked in like clockwork,” Lamagna said with a laugh. “Then, about two and a half years ago, he invited me to visit Denver because he had an available space that was moving quickly. When I arrived, he introduced me to Juan Padro [founder and CEO of Culinary Creative], who showed me the space and the city’s food scene.”
After discussing the opportunity with his wife, Lamagna took the leap. By October 2022, plans for Magna Kainan were underway, and by 2023, he had recruited his chef de cuisine, Jodee Reyes.
“When I visited Denver 10 years ago, it wasn’t as dynamic as it is now but I could see the potential. The city itself, the vibe, the mountain backdrop — it just gets to you,” Lamagna recounted.
He was also excited by the opportunity to make his mark as a Filipino chef in the city. “There weren’t many Filipino places established in Denver proper, and the chance to be part of the first wave of something in any city is rare,” he said.
Ultimately, Lamagna hopes Magna Kainan will inspire more Filipino chefs to open restaurants here, and he’s hoping to help.
“Opening a restaurant is scary – it’s a huge leap of faith. To have the support of [Culinary Creative] behind us is amazing. I’m incredibly grateful for the group, for the people of Denver, and for the community here. The way everyone has welcomed us has been overwhelming,” he said. “Filipino food is having a moment, and being part of that moment is something I don’t take for granted.”
