Jonathan Anderson Conjured JFK Jr.’s Style for ‘Challengers’ Costumes

LONDON — No matter how busy Jonathan Anderson may be designing collections for Loewe, JW Anderson and his various collaborations, he always has time for his old filmmaker friend Luca Guadagnino.

So when the Italian director asked him to design the costumes for “Challengers,” a film about love, friendship, and rivalry on and off the tennis court, Anderson was straight in the game. The film stars Zendaya, Josh O’Connor and Mike Faist.

“We think in a similar way, and about similar subjects — the idea of taste, aesthetics — as well as what’s happening in design, visual and decorative arts,” said Anderson, who has collaborated with Guadagnino on a variety of projects, including a short for Loewe and the feature film “Queer.”

“On film, he has an incredible ability to create these quite painterly worlds,” said Anderson, adding that “Queer,” a film starring Daniel Craig, was “a life-changing experience for me and such a generous project to work on.” 

With “Challengers,” Anderson said he added an intensity to the clothing that could match the spirit of the film, which is set for release on April 26. The London premiere is on Wednesday, followed by events in Monte Carlo and Los Angeles.

“In ‘Challengers’ the pace is intense, and the characters are too. As an audience you’re never quite sure who to root for. And clothes are an instrument of that,” Anderson added.

Although he was dressing characters of a similar age and background — all three are tennis pros — Anderson thought of them very differently.

For O’Connor’s character Patrick Zweig, Anderson said he channeled the old-money nonchalance of John F. Kennedy Jr.

“When JFK Jr. was younger, in the ‘80s and ‘90s, there was kind of an effortlessness to his wardrobe — like he could wear anything, and sex appeal would always be there,” the designer said.

“I felt like [Patrick] should not care how he looks because, ultimately, he is not endorsed, he is not the biggest star in tennis, so his look becomes a bit ad-hoc and stuck together. But when you look at the base parts of his attire, he has very aged, expensive things, including an old wallet that’s still very expensive, though it’s falling apart,” Anderson added.

For the other male lead Art Donaldson, played by Faist, “the design revolved around this idea that when you’re successful, you have to ‘wear’ it, you have to show that you’re in control by the power of the brand you choose. [His wardrobe] emphasizes brand endorsement in sports,” Anderson said.

Faist’s character wears Uniqlo branded clothing on the court, and it’s a name that Anderson knows well. The designer’s latest collaboration with the Japanese high street giant is due for release later this month.

For Zendaya’s character Tashi Duncan, a former tennis prodigy turned coach, Anderson said he wanted to “play up” the idea of branding.

“Tashi is making the decisions, and she’s kind of living ‘through’ art as a kind of tennis fantasy. My whole notion was, instead of playing down the brand, it would be interesting to play ‘up’ the brand. It’s not about product placement; it’s about this odd type of psychology that we live in. We forget that the wallpaper around us is made up of brands.”

The designer said that “when you look at sports today, it’s about the logo, about the ‘American dream’ of a brand. Luca understands an American world — and in America, brands are truly part of the backdrop.”

Anderson argued that designing costumes isn’t so different than creating for the runway.

“Working on costume for a film is a kind of theater, just as fashion is, but it’s about tapping into a character. So it explores a different part of what I would normally do — and collaborating closely with a director also forces me to think and work differently,” he said.

Guadagnino said “every item of clothing looks natural on the characters without being too ‘designed.’ It’s a look that really kind of comes from within.”

The actual designer looks came later, well after the film wrapped.

For the premieres and photocalls O’Connor and Faist have been wearing a lot of Loewe, while Zendaya has been wearing a mix of Louis Vuitton, Loewe, custom Jonathan Anderson for Loewe, Calvin Klein and Lacoste.

The actress’ white, custom-made Loewe stilettos, featuring skewered neon yellow tennis balls, were a first for the brand that loves a touch of the surreal.