Neo-Brutalist architecture and the Bauhaus movement continued to influence the work of creative director Marie-Christine Statz, who sent out a collection of structured silhouettes softened by sporty and sheer touches.
Statz said the season was less about a style prescription than addressing multifaceted lives. Following the idea that no one wants to be buttoned up day in, day out, she sought to bring ease through plush textures like padded silks for wrap skirts or mohair on dresses and coats.
Elsewhere, she riffed on the contrast between suiting material and leathers — vegan or otherwise — to smarten up more casual fare, like raw denim trousers or slouchy knits.
This season, proportions hewed closer to the body, sometimes supplemented by belts to amplify an hourglass form. Not one for plunging necklines, Statz said “a touch of nudity brings something feminine, formal yet brings lightness,” baring legs with roll-neck body suits worn with a coat thrown over them or cutting skirts and tops from gauzy fabrics.
An element of playfulness came from off-kilter cuts and asymmetrical elements, such as long swatches made to be folded over and removable collars.
There were also a handful of accessories, including a soft clutch in three sizes and leather socks. “A look is a bit like a painting, what do you add to bring nuance,” she said. “The possibilities are there; it just depends on what the woman wants to explore.”
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