Curry, dumplings, roast chicken: a Chinese medicine practitioner’s best Hong Kong eats

Hongkonger Ruth Lee, a registered Chinese medicine practitioner and acupuncturist, is the founder of Master Ruth TCM Clinic in Central, on Hong Kong Island. She spoke to Andrew Sun.

I am a food lover and I enjoy everything that different cuisines have to offer. However, Chinese is my preference for the great varieties of cooking inherited from thousands of years.

As a Chinese medicine practitioner, I also love that the philosophy of balance is well infused into the cooking.

For lunch, I like something simple and quick. Wai Kee (Shop 5, Bowrington Road Cooked Food Centre, 1/F, 21 Bowrington Road, Wan Chai. Tel: 2574 1131) is a halal shop run by Muslim Chinese. This is a hidden find that only locals would go to.

The signature dish is curry mutton. The flavours are spot on, nothing fancy, not too spicy, and they are so cheap – every dish is around HK$50 (US$6.40). I also love the potent anti-inflammatory properties of the curry with turmeric, chilli peppers and coriander.

Pickled mustard cabbage and stewed fish at San Xi Lou. Photo: Edmond So

My all-season favourite dinner is the Sichuan boiled fish at San Xi Lou (Shop B, 17/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival Street, Causeway Bay. Tel: 3795 8522), which uses a whole fish with very little bones.

The recipe is heavy on chilli and Sichuan peppercorns, which keep you warm in cold weather and expel dampness in the hot and humid summers. The chef can adjust the level of spiciness when you order.

One-Michelin-star restaurant Louise (G/F, JPC, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen Street, Central. WhatsApp: 5722 3269) is set in a beautiful two-storey heritage building with outdoor seating. The weekend brunch with a sharing concept is very rare in French cuisine.

Do not miss the roasted Hong Kong yellow chicken. The flavour is rich with different local herbs and spices – a truly Hong Kong and French fusion, tender and juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside. Save some space for the delicious chicken-oil-infused rice.

Roasted Hong Kong yellow chicken, Niigata rice “en cocotte” and salad at Louise. Photo: Xiaomei Chen

I would take visitors to Yung Kee Restaurant (32-40 Wellington Street, Central. Tel: 2522 1634) for the roasted goose.

You know it is really authentic when most other roast goose restaurants advertise that their chefs once worked at Yung Kee or their owners are related to Yung Kee. It offers high-quality Southern Chinese flavours.

Dim sum like siu mai and shrimp dumplings are superb, too. I also like the fried sticky rice and noodles. The place is worth every penny.

For a splurge meal, Caprice (Podium 6, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central. Tel: 3196 8860) will not disappoint.

Caprice, awarded three Michelin stars six years in a row under executive chef Guillaume Galliot, has top-notch French cuisine featuring premium ingredients and exceptional cooking techniques. The food, service, ambience, view – everything is perfectly matched.

The signature roast goose at Yung Kee Restaurant in Central. Photo: SCMP
A dish called “My Own House Tomatoes with Basil Cold Sabayon” at Caprice. Photo: Caprice

I just came back from Florence, Italy and enjoyed a restaurant named Trattoria Zà Zà (Piazza del Mercato Centrale 26R, Florence. Tel: +39 055 215411). I loved the fun atmosphere, friendly staff, delicious food and it was not pricey at all.

The fried calamari and home-made spaghetti with shrimp and clams were authentic and flavourful. I especially loved their “world’s best panna cotta”. I promise it was to die for. It was Firenze (the Italian name for Florence) at its finest.

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