Citizens of Humanity Group is joining Pili, the French biochemicals company specialized in sustainable dyes and pigments, on its journey to decarbonize the color industry.
On Monday, the Los Angeles-based owner of premium denim brands Citizens of Humanity (COH) and Agolde launched the first garments produced with Pili’s Eco-Indigo, a bacteria-based alternative to petroleum-derived indigo dye.
Pre-launching exclusively with Net-a-porter, Agolde’s Pili capsule features the Kelley, Ren, 90s and V Waist fits, button-down shirts and jackets in a variety of light to dark washes. The COH collection includes Blaine, Winslow Cropped Boyfriend and Miro Rework jeans, a long vest, matching trouser jean and a cropped collarless jacket.
Pili’s high-efficiency bio indigo addresses the textile industry’s annual consumption of 2 million tons of dyes — 99 percent of which are fossil-based. Using a hybrid process that combines industrial fermentation with green chemistry, Pili’s method to produce high-performance colors reduces harmful chemicals and fossil fuel dependency while cutting CO₂ emissions by up to 50 percent compared to traditional indigo dyeing processes.
The process begins by genetically engineering bacteria to produce the desired pigments. These microbes are cultivated in tanks and fed carbon feedstocks, such as sugar, to synthesize the textile dye. After fermentation, the dye is separated from the bacteria using a simple filtration method. This biotechnological process allows for scalable, cost-effective dye manufacturing without compromising on quality.
Jeremie Blache, CEO of Pili, said the company aims to redefine the standards of sustainability in the denim industry. “Our bio-based dyes target some of the most environmentally harmful applications in textiles, inks, polymers and coatings,” he said.
Producing several tons of Eco-Indigo for commercial use marks a significant milestone for the bio-tech firm, however. Founded in 2015, Pili secured $15.8 million in series A funding in 2023 to produce the first tons of its bio indigo. At the time of the announcement, Pili stated it had several million euros of pre-orders of bio-based dyes and pigments in the textile, ink and paints sectors.
Eco-Indigo integrates seamlessly with existing dyeing infrastructure, maintaining commercial viability and minimizing cost impacts for manufacturers. As production scales, the cost differential with traditional petroleum-based dyes is expected to decrease further.
Supply Chain Collaboration
COH’s integration of Eco-Indigo into its bestsellers collection creates a strong business case, proving that sustainable choices like Pili’s innovation are not only environmentally impactful but also commercially advantageous for the denim industry.
“Having a visionary partner like Citizens of Humanity supporting Pili’s technology is transformative for our business,” Blache said. “Their long-term commitment provides essential stability, enabling Pili to focus on scaling its production and accelerating its growth over the coming years.”
Along with lending significant credibility to the project, both within the market and among investors, he said COH’s leadership demonstrates “confidence in the viability of Pili’s innovations, making a compelling case for broader industry adoption.” The premium denim brand also has the capacity to absorb the initial costs of adopting a new product. “This provides a critical runway for Pili as we scale production and work to make our bio-based indigo accessible to a wider market,” he said.
Citizens of Humanity Group began exploring Pili’s bio dyes, along with other industry innovations, a few years ago. Amy Williams, Citizens of Humanity Group CEO, said the partnership with Pili has allowed them to bridge the gap between scientific breakthroughs and practical applications.
“The initial focus was working to ensure the indigo performed like natural and synthetic indigo working at the mill to trial, test, and adjust the development. The second phase was focused on scaling up production, making sure we brought the product to market when we had a continuous supply,” she told Rivet.
This involved rigorous testing to ensure the dyes could meet the brands’ aesthetic and performance standards, from small-batch trials in labs to larger production runs in company’s facilities. “The R&D process has been a collaborative effort, combining their expertise in bioengineering with our manufacturing and production capabilities and continues now as we work to develop a complete range of indigo shades,” Williams said.
Orta developed the fabrics. The Turkish mill previously worked with COH on regenerative cotton denim.
The Pili collection is the result of partners that share a vision, said Sebla Onder, Orta’s marketing and sustainability manager.
“The collaborative work is key here,” she said. “We created the perfect match for COH for this collaboration: regenerative cotton and Pili’s bio-indigo dye. All grown and produced with regenerative mindset to integrate more renewable bio-materials and reduce carbon emissions. A match made in heaven.”
The mill is working on new shade developments with the bio indigo to widen its fabric range with the new innovation.
“With extensive expertise in dyeing technologies, Orta has been instrumental in advancing Pili bio-based indigo from both technical and business perspectives,” Blache said, adding that Orta’s access to the premium market — a key segment for early adopters —makes them well positioned to promote the adoption of Pili’s innovation.
The partnership with Orta also reflects the importance of integrating all players in the value chain when adopting new materials. “The connection between COH and Orta has created a tripartite relationship, ensuring alignment between the brand, the denim mill, and the innovator. This collaborative approach has been vital for effectively bringing Pili’s innovation to market,” he said.
Better Future
Citizens of Humanity Group’s “visionary, sincere and pragmatic approach to reducing environmental impact,” made it the ideal partner for the launch, Blache said. “They consistently lead the way in adopting the highest ecological standards, utilizing advanced processing technologies, and championing regenerative cotton practices. Their decision to incorporate Pili’s product reflects their forward-thinking commitment to sustainable innovation,” he said.
Blache added that the company’s dedication to accountability, with all claims grounded in scientific validation, sets it apart. “Their integrated value chain enable them to make meaningful, long-term commitments — essential for driving sustainability in the textile industry,” he said.
Williams said the Pili products are “a pivotal moment in our industry’s journey towards a more regenerative future.”
“For us, leadership in sustainability goes beyond investment — it’s about driving holistic collaborations that foster real innovation,” she told Rivet. “These partnerships are more than financial; they are hands-on and immersive. We engage in testing, research, and development to bring transformative technologies to life and ensure they are viable at scale. Being a leader in sustainability technology means taking responsibility for advancing the industry — not just for Citizens of Humanity Group, but for the future of fashion.”
Adopting Pili’s Eco-Indigo into its regenerative cotton production reinforces Citizen’s support of innovative solutions to mitigate the textile industry’s environmental impact. The brand’s Regenerative Cotton Program, initiated to empower and support cotton farmers in the U.S. and abroad to transition to regenerative practices, has successfully procured over 5 million pounds of regenerative cotton since the program’s inception in 2022, with another 5 million pounds expected from this year’s 2024 harvest.
Looking ahead, Pili is eager to collaborate with additional brands, particularly those in the premium segment with a strong dedication to sustainability. “We aim to partner with companies already investing in sustainable fibers and driving meaningful change in the industry as we scale our production in the coming years,” Blache said.
Citizens of Humanity and Agolde’s spring 2025 collections will be available online and at other global retailers later in the month.
