For sure Charaf Tajer was feeling the Olympics fever sweeping through Paris in anticipation of the Summer Games, but his fall 2024 women’s Casablanca Paris collection wasn’t just about luxe sports and spectator wear.
It was inspired by a ritualistic practice of another kind — the ancient Greeks’ use of psychedelics, specifically Plato, Aristotle, Herodotus, Sophocles, and Euripides, the Hollywood celebrities of their time (and Greece was, after all, where the Olympics began). Charaf set the stage at the Cirque D’Hiver with a chorus of trippy seated dancers conducted by choreographer Sadeck Berrabah in a symphony of arm movements.
“Psychedelics are a subject that will only evolve in the future and we should be part of this message. It’s important also to show the past wasn’t so dusty,” said Tajer, an enthusiast himself, who when asked if he’d put the Casablanca name on any kind of mind-altering substance, demurred but said he is working on a big collaboration.
With a new owner and a new chief executive officer in place, Tajer is setting Casablanca on a journey for growth beyond the cheeky country club resort wear that has defined (pigeon-holed?) the brand.
This collection took some strides with a more toned-down color palette and broader, more classical offerings that could land Casablanca on the red carpet and at other starry events. There was fine looking draped-at-the-waist suiting and tuxedos (tailoring is a growing category), soft mohair outerwear, Lurex polo shirts, crystal-embroidered sheer tanks and skirts, and velvety moleskin “denim.” Women’s evening wear, however — including mini and column dresses, some with under-bust cutouts or detailing — could have used more polish.
Of course, there were plenty of sporty elements to keep Casablanca in that game, including the latest varsity jackets, made in collaboration with artist Jeff Hamilton, with seasonal patches and embroideries of magic mushrooms, Olympic torches, and more.
Hellenic symbols, laurels, vases and Olympic rings appeared as graphics and trims on good-looking hooded running shirts, track suits, knit sets (thigh-high socks included) and tennis dresses. There was also a new collaboration with Ancient Greek Sandals on gladiators. For all the talk, though, the psychedelic references were minimal. A little more would have gone a long way.
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