By Brigid Washington, The New York Times
For many Jamaicans, spice bun is a staple of Lent, the 40-day period before Easter marked by prayer, penitence and restraint, for those observing. But there’s nothing restrictive about this baked good, so named for its bold seasonings.
Colloquially referred to as “bun,” this quick bread — in the shape of either an oblong loaf or an oval bun — is spice-forward and forgiving, its big tastes easily extracted from a few easy-to-find ingredients. Molasses and stout, essential ingredients in the Caribbean pantry, moisten and color the bun’s dark, tender crumb year-round.
“Bun is one of the island’s iconic food traditions,” said Andre Fowles, the personal chef to Bruce Springsteen and his wife, Patti Scialfa, and the author of a forthcoming Jamaican cookbook.
But during the Lenten season, when it’s officially called Easter bun, it gets a fruity face-lift, enhanced with added raisins and red cherries.
“Giving and sharing bun during Easter honors the religious aspect of the season,” Fowles said.
Golden Krust Caribbean Bakery, a family-run, fast-casual chain with more than 100 outposts in the United States, first started making and selling bun in 1949 as Hawthorne & Sons Bakery in St. Andrew Parish, Jamaica. Now, the company produces about 150,000 buns a year, with 90,000 of those sold during Lent alone, what Steven Clarke, vice president of marketing for the restaurant group, calls “an adrenalized injection of traffic.”
“For us, Easter is like Christmas,” said Clarke, adding that the company’s factory bustles in advance of the season to meet heightened demand.
“During Easter, the culture really calls for it,” he said.
As is the case with many foods, bun’s origins aren’t tidily pinned to a specific point in Jamaica’s history. It is widely believed to have evolved from hot cross buns, speaking to centuries of English colonial rule — Jamaica gained independence in 1962 — and Britain’s hold on the sugar trade in the region.
With bun, Jamaicans took something European and made it their own, using the robust flavors — nutmeg, allspice, clove, cinnamon, ginger — that infuse many of the island’s dishes. They not only add a spiky sweetness but also reflect Jamaica’s bombastic identity and soul. Bun is an example of adaptive and joyous baking, that Jamaicans on the island and abroad are proud to call their own.
“It does not need innovation, it is perfect as it is and needs no improvement,” said Suzanne Rousseau, who, with her sister, Michelle, wrote “Provisions: The Roots of Caribbean Cooking.” “It stands the test of time and is beloved by all Jamaicans.”
Recipe: Spice Bun
By Brigid Washington
Widely believed to be a descendant of hot cross buns, this Jamaican spice bun soars with vibrant spices. It boasts a moist, tender crumb, and a rich, earthy hue thanks to the inclusion of molasses and stout. While this anytime snack is enjoyed year-round on the island, it’s also a beloved Lenten and Easter tradition for many. Typically, it’s served with a generous slice of sharp cheddar cheese, but spreading a small pat of good salted butter on a piece of the warm, straight-from-the-oven loaf also delivers a special kind of pleasure.
Yield: One 9-inch loaf
Total time: 3 1/4 hours
Ingredients
- Nonstick cooking spray
- 3 large eggs
- 1 1/4 cups/275 grams packed dark brown sugar
- 1 cup/225 grams stout beer
- 1/3 cup/66 grams vegetable oil
- 1/3 cup/100 grams unsulphured molasses
- 2 teaspoons aromatic bitters (such as Angostura)
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 2 cups/240 grams all-purpose flour
- 2 teaspoons baking powder
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
- 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
- 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
- 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 1 cup/about 14 ounces maraschino cherries, coarsely chopped
- 1 medium navel orange, zested and juiced (about 1/2 tablespoon zest and 1/3 cup juice)
- 1/2 cup/60 grams raisins
- 1/2 cup/60 grams golden raisins
Preparation
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with nonstick cooking spray and line with enough parchment paper to create an overhang on two long sides.
2. In a large bowl, add the eggs, sugar, beer, oil, molasses, bitters and vanilla; whisk to combine. The mixture should be dark and viscous.
3. In the same bowl, add the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, allspice, cloves and salt. Using a silicone spatula, gently fold all of the ingredients to combine, scraping the sides of the bowl. (Some small lumps are OK.)
4. Gently stir in the cherries, orange zest and juice, and all the raisins, then pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan and spread evenly.
5. Bake on the center rack until the edges of the spice bun pull away from the sides of the pan, 70 to 75 minutes. Because the batter is dark, it is important to keep an eye on visual cues for doneness. Around the 70-minute mark, insert a cake tester into the center of the loaf; if it comes out with a few loose crumbs attached, the loaf is done. If the tester comes out with a thick smear of batter, bake for another 5 to 10 minutes. (It is typical for the top of the loaf to crack.)
6. Remove the loaf from the oven and let cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Next, use the parchment to lift the loaf out of the pan and transfer to the rack to cool completely.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
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