Since his debut last year Sabato De Sarno has faced criticism. The sleek, clean aesthetic he has anchored his vision for Gucci on has been knocked for its simplicity, accused of prompting occasional yawns among a fashion and social media audience that’s always chasing the next adrenaline rush.
But De Sarno has stayed true to his style, committed to bringing the brand’s codes into people’s closets via immediately readable shapes and a striking color sensibility.
He’s also increasingly focused on mining the brand’s craftsmanship heritage, elevating the research and quality of his wardrobe archetypes season after season.
For pre-fall 2025, he stayed within the parameters of its unfussy aesthetic but let textures do the talking. The ones that spoke the loudest and charmingly refreshed his language were a series of faux furs that conveyed a luxe yet relaxed message, in sync with its overall spirit. To be sure, De Sarno built on the “casual grandeur” and Jacqueline Kennedy inspiration of his spring 2025 women’s line, but shifted toward a ‘70s vibe to embrace more elongated silhouettes and a nonchalant attitude.
Confirming his prowess in outerwear, furry trenchcoats with contrasting GG-monogram cuffs and plush intarsia coats added to cropped faux furs recreating the pattern of Fair Isle sweaters, which amplified their sense of coziness. The same feeling came through tone-on-tone logoed shearling options and details, as seen in the collar of a standout leather aviator jacket embossed with the double-G pattern.
Supple leather and canvas offered lighter counterpoints, reinforced by the fluidity of silk dresses and scarves. On a mission to reassert the Florentine house’s expertise in the category, De Sarno reprised the brand’s archival Flora motif and reworked it in a bandana-like graphic placed on tunics and zippered jackets. He also mixed Gucci’s equestrian insignias in a different print splashed on foulards tied around the head, which were key accessories along with new iterations of the ever-present Jackie 1961 and Blondie bags.
Elsewhere, a rich macramé set and delicate flower appliqués blended with compact trompe l’oeil knits smartly mimicking layered pieces. Other subtle touches included the brand’s name repeated in the pinstripe motif of a suit for him and her, which hinted at the cohesiveness De Sarno is likely to channel in the “unified” runway show he’ll stage in February.
Hopefully at that time he’ll push the experimentation envelope even further to hit not just wearability but unlock that aspirational quotient and excitement that should always go with the Gucci name as well.
