By Ali Slagle, The New York Times
I spend most days tinkering with new recipes, so when it’s time to eat dinner, there are usually whole meals left over from that morning’s testing to eat, or various ingredients to puzzle into a dinner. Some of those use-what-I’ve-got situations give me an idea for a new recipe, and the cycle continues.
But! Every season brings a handful of dishes that are non-negotiables, meals I have to make regardless of what’s already in the fridge. It wouldn’t be summer without charred bits, bread soaked in salad juice, and sprightly herbs and vegetables, all of which are captured in the five dishes that follow. Some tweaks are included for each, too: Like many New York Times Cooking readers, I don’t always follow recipes exactly.
By the way, salad juice (noun) is the potion that collects beneath a salad consisting of juicy ingredients such as tomatoes, soft cheese, citrus and cucumbers. Used in a sentence: “Caprese’s salad juice of spritzy and salty tomato water, milky mozzarella and peppery olive oil is reason enough to make caprese.”
Which foods make your summer? Mango with chile and lime? A tomato sandwich? Peach pie? Consider this a reminder to add bucket-list dishes to a dinner plan very soon.
1. Pad Krapow Gai (Thai Basil Chicken)
As dynamic as it is speedy, this ground chicken and green bean recipe from “Night + Market” (Clarkson Potter, 2017) by Kris Yenbamroong and Garrett Snyder delivers a wallop of flavor with punchy ingredients that stir-fry in just 15 minutes. While this popular Thai street food can be whipped up using a range of proteins, Yenbamroong refers to his riff as “low-rent” because it’s prepared with ground chicken rather than pricier slices of meat. It’s piled with basil; Thai basil or holy basil provide more assertive licorice notes, but sweet basil adds herbal bursts of brightness. Spiked with Thai seasoning (see Tips), the chicken mixture is salty on its own, but it’s inextricably linked with rice and imparts the right amount of salinity when dispersed. — Alexa Weibel
Recipe from Kris Yenbamroong
Adapted by Alexa Weibel
Yield: 2 to 4 servings
Total time: 15 minutes
Ingredients
- 1/4 cup vegetable oil
- 1 pound ground chicken (preferably dark meat)
- 2 teaspoons minced garlic (from 2 cloves)
- 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
- 1 teaspoon minced fresh bird’s-eye chile or other fresh chile (from 1 chile)
- 8 ounces green beans, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 1/2 cups)
- 3 tablespoons oyster sauce
- 2 tablespoons fish sauce
- 1 tablespoon Thai seasoning sauce (such as Golden Mountain; see Tips)
- 1 cup loosely packed basil leaves (preferably Thai basil or holy basil)
- Ground white pepper, to taste
- Steamed jasmine rice, for serving
- 4 crispy fried eggs (optional)
Preparation
1. Heat a wok or large nonstick skillet over medium-high, then swirl in the oil. Once the oil is shimmering, add the ground chicken and cook, actively breaking the chicken up into small pieces, until it is mostly cooked, about 6 minutes.
2. Stir in the garlic, sugar and chile until evenly distributed and fragrant, about 2 minutes, then add the green beans, oyster sauce, fish sauce and Thai seasoning, and cook, stirring constantly, until the chicken is fully cooked, the green beans are crisp-tender and the krapow is glossy, about 2 minutes.
3. Remove from heat, add the basil and a dash of white pepper and toss to combine. If the sauce seems to cling too tightly to the mixture, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of water to make it loose and glossy.
4. Serve over rice, and top with a crispy fried egg, if desired. Serve with additional Thai seasoning to sprinkle on top, according to taste.
Tips
Golden Mountain is made with fermented soybeans, like soy sauce, and imparts sweetness along with its jolt of salinity. It can be purchased in Asian supermarkets or online and lasts indefinitely. A dash of it adds complexity to stir-fries, curries, fried rice and cooked proteins and vegetables.
How I make it
I use ground turkey for more juiciness and soy sauce instead of Thai seasoning sauce. Plus more basil — Kenji López-Alt’s recipe in his book “The Wok” uses 1 1/2 packed cups.
2. Caprese Antipasto
If you have ever eaten a caprese salad and wished that you could linger with it longer, that there were more tomatoes to spear with your fork or more milky slices of cheese on the plate, then this is the dish for you. Best at the height of tomato season, it embellishes on the classic caprese, taking its five simple elements — mozzarella, tomatoes, basil, salt and olive oil — and adding roasted peppers, caperberries (or capers), olive and prosciutto. The result is a luscious lunch or light dinner that will make your dining companions swoon. You will wonder why you didn’t think of it sooner. Serve with a crusty loaf of bread on the side.
By David Tanis
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: About 30 minutes
Ingredients
- 2 ripe bell peppers, 1 red and 1 yellow if possible
- Salt and pepper
- Extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 pound fresh mozzarella, at room temperature
- 2 pounds ripe tomatoes, in assorted colors if possible
- 1/2 pound cherry tomatoes, in assorted colors if possible
- Handful of caperberries, or 1 tablespoon large capers, rinsed
- Handful of good-quality olives
- 6 thin slices of prosciutto, more if desired
- Handful of basil leaves
Preparation
1. To roast peppers, set them directly in the flames of a stovetop gas burner turned to high, or over hot coals if you happen to be grilling. (You could also roast under the broiler, with peppers as close to heat source as possible.) Turn peppers with tongs until skins are blackened and blistered all over, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove to a plate and let cool. To peel, cut peppers lengthwise. Scrape seeds and veins away with your knife, then turn peppers over and scrape away charred skin. Slice peeled peppers into 1/2-inch ribbons and place in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper, then add 1 tablespoon olive oil and toss. (Peppers may be roasted up to a day ahead.)
2. Cut mozzarella into 1/4-inch slices. Cut tomatoes into 1/2-inch slices and halve cherry tomatoes.
3. Arrange mozzarella slices in the center of a large platter. Surround with tomatoes and sprinkle lightly with salt. Add roasted pepper strips, caperberries and olives. Drape prosciutto around the platter. Garnish with basil leaves. Drizzle generously with olive oil and serve.
How I make it
I add any mix of capers, pickled peppers, radishes, arugula, stone fruit, melon, avocado and white beans. And there is always bread for collecting the salad juice.
3. Crispy Coconut, Asparagus and Green Bean Salad
This sweet and salty salad celebrates the best of spring, starting with a base of asparagus and green beans. The crispy coconut almond topping is loosely inspired by serundeng, an Indonesian spiced coconut condiment, which adds texture to the salad. You can grill the beans and asparagus to add a smoky flavor to the dish or swap out the asparagus for runner beans, Broccolini or any spring vegetable. All the individual salad elements can be made in advance, but you’ll want to assemble just before serving for the best results.
By Yotam Ottolenghi
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 25 minutes
Ingredients
- Fine sea salt
- 8 ounces asparagus, trimmed
- 8 ounces green beans, trimmed
- 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lime zest plus 2 tablespoons juice (from 2 limes)
- 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil or another neutral oil
- 4 teaspoons white miso
- 2 teaspoons maple syrup
- 1/2 cup sliced almonds
- 1/3 cup unsweetened shredded coconut
- 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
- 2 teaspoons Aleppo chile flakes or 1 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
- 8 breakfast radishes, trimmed and quartered
- 3 tablespoons torn fresh cilantro leaves with tender stems
Preparation
1. Fill a medium saucepan with well salted water and bring to a boil. Once boiling, add the asparagus and boil for 2 minutes, then add the green beans and cook for 2 minutes more, until the asparagus is tender but the green beans have a slight bite. Drain in a colander set in the sink and rinse under cold water until completely cool. Leave to drain and air dry.
2. Make the dressing: Whisk the lime zest and juice, oil, miso and maple syrup in a large bowl to combine.
3. Make the coconut topping: Toast the almonds in a small skillet over a medium heat for about 5 minutes, stirring often, until light brown. Stir in the coconut, sugar, chile and 1/2 teaspoon salt and toast for another minute, stirring constantly, until the coconut turns golden brown, then transfer to a small bowl to cool completely.
4. Add the asparagus, green beans, radishes and cilantro to the dressing and mix to combine. Stir in all but 1 tablespoon of the coconut topping. Transfer to a shallow serving bowl, sprinkle with the remaining coconut topping and serve immediately.
How I make it
I tackle the various components ahead of time, and you can too. Blanch and refrigerate the vegetables up to two days ahead; make the coconut topping and dressing up to a day ahead. Leave the topping covered at room temperature and refrigerate the dressing. The vegetables can vary, too: broccoli, sweet potatoes, snap peas — go for it.
4. Moroccan Kefta
Kefta is ground beef or lamb mixed with ingredients like fresh herbs, onions, ground cumin and sweet paprika, which are often used in Moroccan cuisine. Moroccans often grill it over charcoal, but it’s very versatile: You can thread kefta onto skewers, as done here, or shape it as a patty to fill a sandwich or even use it as a stuffing for dumplings.
By Nargisse Benkabbou
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 15 minutes, plus 1 hour’s chilling
Ingredients
- 1 pound ground beef or lamb (15% to 20% fat)
- 1 small yellow onion, grated with its juices reserved (about 120 grams)
- 1/2 packed cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
- 1/2 packed cup cilantro, finely chopped
- 1/2 packed cup mint leaves, finely chopped
- 2 heaped teaspoons sweet paprika
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1/2 heaped teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- Pinch of ground cayenne
- Neutral oil, such as canola, for greasing
Preparation
1. If using wood skewers, soak them in cold water for 30 minutes. In a large bowl using your hands or a large spoon, very thoroughly combine the beef, onion and the juices, parsley, cilantro, mint, sweet paprika, cumin, salt, black pepper and cayenne until uniform.
2. Take about 1/2 teaspoon of the kefta mixture, cook it (in a pan or in the microwave) and taste it to check the seasoning. Add more salt to the kefta mixture if necessary.
3. Take about 2 1/2 tablespoons of the kefta mixture and mold it onto a skewer to form a log that is about 1-inch thick and 2 1/2-inches long, pressing the meat firmly to adhere. (If using long skewers, you can form one long log on each.) Repeat until you’ve used all the kefta mixture. Place the skewers on a plate, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour or up to 24 hours.
4. When ready to cook, heat the grill or grill pan to medium-high, lightly oil the grates with a brush, place the kebabs on the grill and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, until cooked through and the meat releases from the grill. Serve immediately with bread and a side of vegetables or a salad.
How I make it
I usually handle the first three steps the morning of. And instead of using skewers, which I never seem to have, I shape the meat like sausages and grill them parallel to the grates (just like hot dogs, another summer requisite).
5. Yucatan Shrimp
This is a dinner to evoke deep summer, when the heat lies heavy even at dusk and humidity wraps you like a blanket: shrimp tossed in garlic butter made fiery with Indonesian sambal and jalapeño, cut by lime, fragrant with cilantro. It is a kind of scampi for the sun-kissed and sun-desirous alike, a vacation on a plate. Add a mojito and a couple of beers. The recipe comes out of southwest Florida, from Doc Ford’s Sanibel Rum Bar and Grille, a restaurant that sits off the road that runs slow and sultry along Sanibel Island toward Captiva, past the placid, russet waters of Tarpon Bay. Randy Wayne White, one of the owners, named the place after the fictional protagonist of his mystery novels. The air smells of salt and mangrove there, of tropical rot and fresh-cut grass. He graciously sent along a recipe, which we adapted for use at home, in 2010. — Sam Sifton
Recipe from Greg Nelson
Adapted by Sam Sifton
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 20 minutes
Ingredients
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 large clove garlic, minced
- Juice of two large limes
- 1 tablespoon Indonesian sambal (preferably sambal oelek, by Huy Fong, though sriracha will work as well)
- Kosher salt
- freshly ground black pepper to taste
- 1 pound large, fresh, shell-on shrimp
- 1 teaspoon jalapeño, seeded and chopped (optional)
- 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Preparation
1. In a small saucepan set over low heat, melt 1 tablespoon of butter. Add the garlic and cook, stirring for 2 minutes.
2. Add remaining 3 tablespoons butter to saucepan. When it melts, stir in the lime juice, chili sauce, salt and pepper. Turn off the heat and allow the sauce to rest.
3. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the shrimp and cook for 2 minutes or until they are just firm and pink. Do not overcook. Drain into a colander and shake over the sink to remove excess moisture.
4. In a large bowl, toss the shrimp and chili sauce. Add jalapeño, if desired, sprinkle with cilantro and toss again.
How I make it
I fire up the grill for smokier, crispier shrimp. Add all the sauce ingredients to a large bowl; no need to melt the butter. When the shrimp come off the grill, add them to the bowl and toss with confidence. The heat from the shrimp will emulsify the butter and gloss the shrimp. Since the grill’s hot, char some corn to eat alongside.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.