By Yewande Komolafe, The New York Times
As a young pastry cook in the early 2000s, my 2 p.m. shift at the restaurant Tatin in Baltimore would begin with a list of doughs to prepare for the next morning.
I would start with ciabatta, a wet, almost runny dough with a seemingly endless pull. It would eventually be baked off, then cut into thin slices to adorn the bread baskets.
The breadstick dough, a simple but dense monster, was rolled out into sheets, sprinkled with herbs and cheese, then cut and shaped into long, skinny sticks.
And then there was the brioche dough, delicate yet sturdy, prickly and requiring your full attention at every step. It was one of the first bread doughs I came to really love.
I can feel awe over what I enjoy about preparing rich, shape-shifting brioche dough — the bubbling and foaming of the yeast, proof of life; the stretch of the dough after a few minutes of kneading; the way the gluten strands surround the pats of softened butter, like gloved fingers wrapped comfortably around a warm mug. I have come to rely on this dough for a host of pastries for special occasions and holidays. But I’m actually here to talk about how doughnuts made from brioche dough may be the only doughnuts you’ll ever need to make.
Even if, like me, you rarely crave doughnuts, a perfect one can elicit cherished food memories. Perhaps beignets, zeppole or puff puff connect you to a time and place where excess was a virtue. If that’s you, you may find bliss in brioche, whether fried or even baked. While you can achieve a soft and crisp doughnut with a variety of different doughs, the softness in these seemed almost ethereal. The taste of butter lingers in every bite, along with a slight tang from the yeasted dough.
I confess that, initially, it felt as if it went against common sense to drop a dough, rather rich with layers of butter, into hot oil. But into the fryer it went. Far from becoming a greasy puddle, as I assumed, these doughnuts emerged with almost feathery middles and a deep golden-brown crust. This will be your reward, too.
For those who are intimidated by the fryer, and for whom a baked, buttery bread offers greater appeal, brioche dough will impress in its more traditional baked form. My recipe for maritozzi, traditional Italian treats of soft buns filled with a sweet cream and sometimes a fruit jam, is a wonderful starting point.
Whether you are looking to serve these doughnuts at a holiday brunch or alongside a cup of tea for one, feel free to experiment. Toss the fried doughnuts in a spice blend of your choosing or use your favorite jam for the maritozzi.
Go for what inspires you the most.
Recipe: Sugared Doughnuts
By Yewande Komolafe
Made from a delicate yet sturdy brioche dough with rich pats of good butter folded in, these doughnuts are soft with almost feathery middles and a delicious deep golden-brown crust. This recipe begins by letting part of the yeasty dough sit for 20 minutes in what’s known among bakers as a pre-ferment. This simple step, along with full-fat buttermilk, gives the doughnuts a lovely tang, and fresh grated nutmeg adds a hint of spice. Like most yeasted doughs, this recipe will require some time on your part, but the steps can be done ahead of time and in stages. These doughnuts are best had while warm, and a quick toss in sugar delivers crunch with every bite.
Yield: 8 doughnuts plus 32 doughnut holes
Total time: 6 hours 15 minutes
Ingredients
- 1/3 cup/80 grams whole milk, heated until warm (110 degrees)
- 1 tablespoon/9 grams instant dried yeast
- 3 1/2 cups/453 grams all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
- 3 large eggs, room temperature
- 1/3 cup/75 grams full-fat buttermilk
- 1/4 cup/50 grams sugar, plus 2 cups/400 grams for rolling
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt, such as Diamond Crystal or 1/2 teaspoon fine salt
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- 6 tablespoons/80 grams salted butter, softened
- Neutral-flavored oil, such as vegetable, for deep-frying (about 8 cups)
Preparation
1. In a medium bowl, combine the warm milk, yeast and 1/2 cup/65 grams flour. Stir with a wooden spoon to form a wet dough. Cover the bowl with a clean towel and allow it to sit until doubled in size, 15 to 20 minutes. Pre-fermenting the dough like this gives the doughnuts a more complex, tangy flavor.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the eggs and buttermilk. Add 1/4 cup sugar, salt, nutmeg, pre-ferment and remaining 3 cups/388 grams flour. Knead on the lowest speed until it comes together in a smooth and elastic dough, about 5 minutes. Scrape the bowl and dough hook.
3. Cut the butter into chunks and add all at once. Incorporate by kneading the dough on speed 2 until the butter is folded in and the dough is again smooth and elastic, 5 to 6 minutes. Scrape down the bowl and fold the dough over to form a loose sphere. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for the dough to rise slowly and chill completely, 4 to 12 hours.
4. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and dust lightly with flour. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface and use a floured rolling pin to roll it to a 1/2-inch thickness. Using cookie or biscuit cutters, cut out 3-inch rounds then cut out 1-inch-diameter holes. Cut out as many doughnut holes as you can from the remaining dough on the work surface. Set aside the scraps to fry as a treat for all your hard work.
5. Arrange the doughnuts on the prepared baking sheet, cover loosely with plastic wrap and let proof at room temperature until the chill is off and the dough feels airy when you tap it gently, about 45 minutes.
6. Set a wire rack over a baking sheet and place the remaining 2 cups/400 grams sugar in a medium bowl. In a heavy, large pot or deep fryer, heat at least 3 inches of oil until a deep-fry thermometer registers 350 degrees. If you don’t have a thermometer, check the temperature by dropping in a scrap of dough. It should bubble immediately and steadily.
7. Working in batches, use a slotted metal spoon or spatula to carefully place the doughnuts, holes and scraps in the hot oil. Fry, flipping once, until light golden brown, 45 seconds to 1 minute per side for the doughnuts and 30 seconds for the holes and scraps. When done, transfer each to the wire rack and return oil to 350 degrees between batches. While still warm, roll doughnuts and holes in sugar and serve immediately.
Recipe: Maritozzi (Sweet Cream Buns)
By Yewande Komolafe
Soft and stuffed with cream, these buttery buns also have a smear of jam for an additional pop of sweetness in this version of the traditional Italian treat. Maritozzi are a variation of quaresimali, Roman breads made with almond flour and sweetened with honey and dried fruit. Maritozzi are usually made without dried fruit and they’re small, the size of your cupped hand, distinct with their generous filling of cream. Sold in bakeries across Rome, and increasingly around the world, they’re a fun project to make at home too since the steps can be done ahead of time and in stages. This version is tangy with buttermilk and spiced with a hint of nutmeg. They are best enjoyed soon after assembly and can be finished with a sprinkling of powdered sugar for a bit of extra flair.
Yield: 10 buns
Total time: About 7 hours
Ingredients
- 1/3 cup/80 grams whole milk, heated to 110 degrees
- 1 tablespoon/9 grams instant dried yeast
- 3 1/2 cups/453 grams all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
- 4 large eggs, room temperature
- 1/3 cup/75 grams full-fat buttermilk
- 1/4 cup/50 grams sugar, plus 1 to 2 tablespoons for filling
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt, such as Diamond Crystal, or 1/2 teaspoon fine salt
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- 6 tablespoons/80 grams salted butter, softened
- 1 cup/250 grams heavy whipping cream
- 2/3 cup firm red fruit jam, such as strawberry, raspberry, red currant or mixed fruits
- 2 tablespoons powdered sugar, for dusting (optional)
Preparation
1. In a medium bowl, combine the warm milk, yeast and 1/2 cup/65 grams flour. Stir with a wooden spoon to form a wet dough. Cover the bowl with a clean towel and allow it to sit until doubled in size, 15 to 20 minutes. Pre-fermenting the dough like this gives the doughnuts a more complex, tangy flavor.
2. Make the dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the eggs and buttermilk. Add the sugar, salt, nutmeg, pre-ferment and remaining 3 cups/388 grams flour. Knead on the lowest speed until it comes together in a smooth and elastic dough, about 5 minutes. Scrape the bowl and dough hook.
3. Cut the butter into large chunks and add all at once. Incorporate by kneading the dough on speed 2 until the butter is folded in and the dough is again smooth and elastic, 5 to 6 minutes. Scrape down the bowl and fold the dough over to form a loose sphere. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for the dough to rise slowly and chill completely, 4 to 12 hours.
4. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and dust lightly with flour. Place the dough ball on a lightly floured work surface and dust the top with some flour. Use a bench scraper or a knife to portion the dough into 10 even (90-gram) pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and place on the prepared baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel. Let rise until the chill is off and the dough feels light and airy, 45 to 50 minutes.
5. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Make an egg wash by combining the remaining egg with 2 tablespoons water in a small bowl. Brush the tops of the dough balls generously with the egg wash.
6. Place the baking sheet on the middle rack of the oven and bake the rolls until light golden brown, 9 to 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees. Rotate the baking sheet and bake for an additional 6 to 8 minutes until the rolls are deep golden brown and sound hollow when lightly tapped. Remove from the oven and transfer rolls to a wire rack to cool completely.
7. Use a whisk or a hand mixer to combine the heavy cream and remaining 1 or 2 tablespoons sugar in a large bowl. Whip vigorously until medium firm peaks form when whisk is lifted.
8. Use a sharp knife to slice down through the top to the center of a cooled roll. Tilt the knife and slice at a 30-degree angle to meet the original cut in the middle of the roll. Pop out the V-shaped piece from the roll (and save as a cook’s snack). Repeat the cutting for the remaining rolls.
9. Fill each roll with a tablespoon of jam. Spoon in the whipped topping to cover the jam, filling the rolls one at a time. Use a spatula or back of a table knife to smooth the top of the cream so it’s flush with the sides of the roll. Wipe the edges if necessary with a clean towel. Dust with powdered sugar if you’d like. Serve immediately.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
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