Aspen’s food scene soaring above its après-ski culture

In Aspen — a glamorous mountain town where cowboy hats meet fur earmuffs — you might find yourself sharing a ski lift with Apple CEO Tim Cook or sitting next to Mariah Carey at dinner.

With an international clientele accustomed to dining at the world’s best restaurants, Aspen has also become a magnet for a new wave of chefs eager to impress refined palates.

It even boasts a Michelin star at Bosq, a tasting menu restaurant. Michelin has also recommended three other restaurants – Element 47, Prospect and Mawa’s Kitchen – in its guide.

“A lot is changing in Aspen, and I believe it’s for the best. Every new restaurant that opens helps push us to the next level,” said Carlos Solorzano-Smith, founder and managing partner of Aspen Hospitality Group (AHG) – one of the newer companies making its mark on the luxe dining scene with three Italian restaurants, Duemani, Angelo’s and Acquolina.

While legendary spots like Ajax Tavern at The Little Nell, Cache Cache and Matsuhisa have long defined the renowned ski destination’s epicurean sensibilities, there’s a new crop of restaurateurs offering a fresh take on Aspen’s culinary identity.

The interior of Wayan, a restaurant in Aspen. (Photo by Shawn O’Connor)

Wayan arrives in Aspen

Among the most talked-about newcomers this ski season is Wayan, co-owned by Cedric and Ochi Vongerichten, who have another outpost of the celebrated French-Indonesian joint in New York City, and restaurateurs Ezra J. William and Raphael Derly. It opened last December.

“I’ve been coming to Aspen with my wife and kids for quite some time now,” said Cedric, who hosted pop-ups at The Little Nell for two years before opening Wayan. “We really loved the experience and the clientele, and my wife and I felt an Indonesian restaurant would be a great addition to the community.”

The vegetable spring rolls at Wayan in Aspen. (Provided by Wayan)
The vegetable spring rolls at Wayan in Aspen. (Provided by Wayan)

Cedric had opened several successful restaurants with his father, famed chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, before launching Wayan in New York’s SoHo as his first solo project in 2019. Around two years ago while participating at an event in the Hamptons, Cedric and Ochi met Derly, and the trio formed a partnership shortly thereafter. Last February, they took over the lease where Local Coffee, Alpina and Here House previously stood.

“After a physical day of skiing or snowboarding, you want comfort food with bold, interesting flavors,” Cedric said. “Indonesian cuisine is very earthy, very fulfilling. There’s noodles and rice dishes, and a lot of brothy soup dishes. It’s exactly what I want to eat after skiing.”

Satays, small plates and larger entrees make up the sharable menu, with offerings like vegetable spring rolls, crudos and the signature lobster noodles with black pepper butter. There are also Aspen exclusives like Colorado lamb satay and short rib Nasi Goreng (fried rice), which is served with an egg, sunny-side up. The Indonesian influence — Ochi is Indonesian — shines through in the cocktail menu as well with beverages like Devil’s Avocado (mezcal, avocado and spicy honey) and the Java Old Fashion with gula jawa (a rich Indonesian palm sugar).

Wayan Aspen serves après-ski and dinner, with weekend brunch set to launch in the next few weeks featuring creative items like Pandan French Toast.

Zigzag, a French-American bistro in Aspen. (Matt Snell)

Matt Snell

Zigzag, a French-American bistro in Aspen. (Matt Snell)

Zigzag redefines après-ski

Another notable addition to the snowcapped culinary landscape is Zigzag. The French-American bistro sits inside the former Mezzaluna space – which closed last October after 37 years in business. Owners chef Romain Pavée and Scott and Carly Weber rapidly transformed the restaurant during a two-and-a-half-month renovation before debuting in December.

“The bones of the space were great since you really can’t build a bistro bar of that size anymore,” Pavée said. “It had a beautiful heritage, and the bar itself was stunning – it only needed a little sanding and a fresh stain. We also wanted to celebrate the wood-burning oven, which is the last remaining one in Aspen, so we wrapped it in copper to give it new life.”

Zigzag’s namesake – coined by Pavée’s daughter – conveys its “chalet casual” nature, evoking an image of the ski tracks that line the nearby slopes. The menu covers lunch, après-ski and dinner, offering lighter fare such as seasonal soups, fresh salads, wood-fired pizzas, vegetable dishes like Zatar roasted carrots, and entrees like lemon brick chicken, cowboy ribeye with cappuccino butter and cast-iron trout.

“We wanted to bring something fresh to town, moving away from the heavy sauces and rich dishes found at other restaurants. The idea was to have a modern take on bistro classics, and offer something different to the dining experience in Aspen,” Pavée continued.

The cocktail program, created by renowned mixologist Devon Tarby (Proprietors LLC, Death & Co Los Angeles), also reflects the bistro’s playful energy with beverages like the Slippery Slope – aptly made with tequila and absinthe – and the Double Black Diamond espresso martini.

“On a daily basis, I’m shocked at how many people get up from their seats at the end of dinner and stop by the host stand to congratulate us or thank us for bringing something new to town,”  Pavée shared.

AHG reimagines the classics

Established in 2021, Aspen Hospitality Group (AHG) is a rising star in the Roaring Fork Valley. The company, which purchased local favorites Duemani and Acquolina in 2021, added Casa D’Angelo to its growing portfolio last April, which it renovated and rebranded as Angelo’s a few months later.

“We wanted to elevate the food and space, make it feel elegant without being too stuffy…a little more fun than it used to be,” explained Solorzano-Smith, a well-known figure who has made his way through Aspen’s culinary ranks, first starting as a back server at The Little Nell in 2009.

The eatery closed in the fall for upgrades, and reopened in December with a new vibe. The Tuscan-inspired dining room now features vibrant floral arrangements, a fully renovated kitchen, refreshed bar, updated bathrooms with hand-painted tiles, a new private dining area showcasing an impressive wine collection, and a heated yurt on the patio clad in cozy ski lodge decor.

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