Zuhair Murad’s collection was infused with an air of dark academia, as the designer toned down his usually wildly inventive use of color with a lineup built on black.
Murad has played with a more monochrome palette in recent seasons, notably in his couture collection presented last July. All that inky drama seeped its way into pre-fall.
Lace dresses were topped with crisp white collars for a look that would not be out of place on Wednesday Addams. There were also Gothic references, relayed in patterns that recalled the sacred details of 16th-century cathedrals rendered in intricate lace patterns on blazers, or punching up a white poplin shirt dress or tunic.
Prints took flight in the delicate patterns of magnified moth wings, blown up to create gauzy blur and subtle shading in moody shades of gray. Elsewhere he pulled in sunnier references in butterflies, both in patterns that played with delicate symmetry as well as 3D embroideries that lifted off the garment.
Color was not obscured, with amethyst, emerald and royal blue to ensure plenty of red carpet play as awards season ramps up, as well as his traditional intricate beading, again playing on the butterfly wings in patterns on gowns.
After debuting a new monogram in his resort collection, Murad has emphasized the design’s importance as an emerging symbol of the house as a subtle print on silk dresses, suits and trousers, as well as on belt buckles and an expanded range of handbags that now includes small clutches. The emphasis on accessories will also play well during awards season.
