What is on the horizon?

Just as we thought ‘Brat Summer’ was finally coming to a close, Charli XCX, the artist behind the trend which has usurped both social media and fashion since the release of her album ‘Brat’ in June, seems to have reignited its fiery neon green flame. It appears the singer-songwriter has something in store for the impending London Fashion Week (LFW), and it could involve none other than high street retail giant H&M.

The news came hours after the Swedish label wiped all content from its Instagram page, leaving behind just the date – “12092024” – in its bio, a slight change to its profile name, now stated as “H&M&”, and a profile picture where its logo sits amid the slime green hue that has become synonymous with the ‘Brat’ movement. What can firmly be deduced from this, is that the retailer is preparing for the drop of its autumn/winter 2024 collection, which is confirmed to be scheduled for launch on September 12 – the opening day of LFW.

Now, however, Charli XCX seems to also be onboard. The singer took to Instagram earlier this week to share a story in which, alongside a few strewn items, a crumpled receipt for H&M could be seen. On it, products such as “Charli’s Dress”, “Brat Boots” and “XCX Sunglasses” were listed – yet, the meaning of this remains unclear. What has become certain, however, is that the duo are to come together for some kind of celebratory occasion. Her involvement was only further cemented by the brand posting an image of the star on its Instagram yesterday, revealing part of its impending campaign. It later announced that she would be joined by other public figures, like Arca, Lila Moss, Ajus Samuel and Loli Bahia. But this isn’t all.

Can ‘Brat Summer’ help boost relevancy for H&M and LFW?

Speaking to Vogue, Charli XCX said she had “convinced” H&M to host a party alongside Jamie XX and Sherelle to both kick off LFW’s SS25 season and ring in the unveiling of the retailer’s new campaign. Details of the collaborative event remain ambiguous, with its location currently undisclosed and the guest list remaining classified. According to Charli XCX, however, the brand has been “so down” to let her do exactly what she wants. “It’s always cool to work with people who just want you to truly express yourself creatively,” she told the media outlet.

The tightly under wrap plan could provide H&M with a much needed boost to both its image and its financials, as it possibly seeks to ride on the coattails of the widely successful marketing that has pushed ‘Brat’ to the height of pop culture. It comes as reports continue to circulate that the Swedish retailer has been losing market share over the years amid heightened competition from industry leaders like Shein and Zara. Its ongoing turnaround is being led by H&M Group CEO, Daniel Ervér, who had outlined the company’s strategy last week in light of lacklustre sales in the second quarter of the year.

Among his plans, and next to an ambition of refurbishing its store fleet, is that of the AW24 collection, which Evrér had confirmed to Business of Fashion was due to release September 12. Speaking to the publication, the executive, who took over the helm position in January 2024, also revealed that an accompanying brand campaign would further draw on a connection between fashion and music. He added: “There is a tremendous opportunity for growth and for profitability, which will allow us to invest in future transformation.”

While the exact looks from the collection have not yet been unveiled, H&M has said that the line is “inspired by the eternal glamour and versatility of mid-century design”, as well as the “lingering beauty of Hollywood cinema sirens”. With this in mind, expect modernised suiting, such as boxy jackets, vintage-style leather dresses, studded loafers and hues of oxblood, caramel, mahogany and green.

Not only that, but London Fashion Week could also benefit from the continued reign of ‘Brat’. The event, organised by the British Fashion Council, has struggled to retain relevance in recent years, putting it in the backdrop of its more fleshed out Milanese and Parisian peers, who have been able to attract highly international audiences and have thus become the place for emerging British brands looking grow in the eyes of the wider industry – meaning many former LFW names have made the move over in pursuit of such acclaim.

According to Vogue, details of Charli XCX and H&M’s crossover party will come in due course, with fans of the singer to apparently be made a priority. One thing is certain, however. It seems that ‘Brat Autumn’ may be on the horizon after all.

This article was updated 09:00 CEST with details of the collection, released by H&M.

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