Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a look at some of the collection highlights and designers to watch from Fall/Winter 2024 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Copenhagen’s new generation of designers looked back to move forward, using their formative years and familial influences to inform their own contemporary takes on retro fashion. From the 1980s to the dawn of the neolithic age, this fresh cohort of talent put a Gen Z-friendly spin on traditional crafting and vintage design references.
Nicklas Skovgaard
Nicklas Skovgaard’s sophomore collection was full of archival references and nods to ‘office sirens.’ Entitled Thematics – Working Girls, Skovgaard drew inspiration from three different 80’s muses, Tess McGill, from the 1984 movie titled Working Girl, Lecia Jønsson, the iconic lead-singer of Danish 1980’s pop-duo Laban and the designer’s mother Annie who became aerobics instructor in London in the mid 1980’s. Tiered Tudor-inspired balloon dresses were crafted from slick oil-like leather. Asymmetrical cuts featured collapsed shoulders and lines that sliced the body on the diagonal. Corporate silhouettes come in officewear greys whilst oversized tops and metallic textures soften boardroom cliches.
Paolina Russo
Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard, the duo behind the knitwear specialist label, bring together their common language in crafts. For Fall 2024, a nighttime presentation featured a watercolour runway surrounded by holographic megalithic structures. Exploring themes of “suburban boredom and coming-of-age rituals,” models were styled as New Age travellers dressed in bohemian attire. The Y2K, rave-inspired aesthetic of the brand saw folkloric prints and hand-crafted knitwear fused with avant-garde athleisure. Structured tunic dresses were layered over embroidered shirts and candy-hued separates came emblazoned with cybercore graphics.
Rolf Ekroth
Tapping into the Danish concept of ‘hygge’, Finnish designer Rolf Ekroth’s collection encapsulated cosiness, comfort, and memories of childhood. Vintage Nordic codes inspired old fashioned florals, traditional knit patterns, and head scarf details whilst the landscapes and wildlife informed nature prints. Hardwearing workwear including quilted jackets and plaid woolen pieces were elevated and contemporized by bulbous silhouettes that cocooned and protected the body. The 1980s was also a reference for Ekroth, reviving the era’s winter sportswear elements and infusing them throughout the collection.
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