Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a look at some of the key men’s collections to watch from Fall/Winter 2024 edition of Fashion Month.
Rethinking traditional menswear codes was a hallmark of FW24, with many designers upending the concepts of tailoring and workwear. Cultural references and genderfluid elements, underpinned by sustainable mindsets, brought surrealism, creativity and fun to pieces whilst remaining wearable and having daily relevance for the modern consumer.
Achilles Ion Gabriel
Like Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton, Achilles Ion Gabriel also explored the idea of the contemporary cowboy. Cowhide, rugged denim, belted bag straps, and Texan-style metal-tipped cowboy boots were introduced alongside a variety of genderless pieces such as lace tops and dresses. Gabriele’s surrealist touch, notable in his footwear designs, came through in textural wrinkled suiting and shirts with collars partly detached. His signature grey-blue shade running throughout the collection, acted as a cohesive red thread between the masculine and feminine influences.
Dhruv Kapoor
Marking his return to Milan Fashion Week, Dhruv Kapoor reinvented classic tailoring and workwear codes, incorporating sporty accents and a vibrant blend of prints and textures. Graphic tees and printed denim fused fantastical and active elements with the designer’s “1W One World,” motif symbolizing his vision for unity beyond gender, borders, or backgrounds. Pieced, patched, and spliced denim and jersey illustrated the label’s commitment to sustainability, giving a second life to surplus materials in order to reduce waste whilst creating unique constructions.
Feng Chen Wang
In Paris, Feng Chen Wang also put her own unique twist on everyday wearability, introducing cultural emblems into suiting and workwear. Inspired by traditional tea ceremonies, Chinese watercolor paintings, and the colors of her homeland’s landscapes, faded leathers and washed-out jerseys came in a palette of earthy browns and mossy greens. Plays with proportion and asymmetry reinvigorated classic outerwear, offering bulbous or outsized silhouettes, or cropped lengths. Paper parasols and moulded sneakers inspired by Chinese teapots infused contemporary menswear with the designer’s heritage.
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