The Korean Chinatown that set the path of Chinese food in Korea

By Kang Hyun-kyung

In the 1980s, Kim Bo-sub used to spend time with local artists in Incheon’s Chinatown, in the South Korean city’s eastern coastal Jung district. The area was a trendy spot for painters and photographers like him, drawn to its unique and exotic atmosphere.

“I was told that the Chinatown area was dark and desolate at the time, with once-thriving Chinese restaurants and hotels either closed or abandoned,” Kim said. “But that bleakness didn’t bother me at all because the rich aromas of Chinese cuisine still filled the air.”

An Incheon native, Kim expressed his fascination with the Chinese character of the area.

“There lived an undertaker who owned a funeral home. Nearby were a mahjong house and old Chinese-style buildings, distinct in structure from traditional Korean houses. I heard that in the 1980s, as many as 10 households lived there together,” he said.

A Chinese chef (front) poses with assistants in this 1994 photo taken by Kim Bo-sub in Incheon’s Chinatown. Photo: Noonbit Publishing

Kim wandered through this “Little China” from time to time to explore the Chinese way of life.

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