The European city with abandoned buildings turned into pubs with £1.50 pints | Europe | Travel

Party in dilapidated buildings filled with retro furniture and fairy lights (Image: Tim White/Getty)

Budapest, Hungary’s historic art nouveau capital, has one of the best nightlife scenes in Europe. Its eclectic ‘ruin bars’ offer reasonably priced drinks and live music

The buzzing European city straddles both history and modernity, with its roots extending deep into early European civilisation.

Originally two separate cities, Buda and Pest, they were unified in 1873 to form Budapest, a vibrant and culturally rich metropolis on the Danube River’s banks.

The 1,770-mile-long River Danube divides the city into Buda, with its rolling hills and historic castle, and Pest, the flat, more urban side. It also serves as the city’s lifeblood, fostering trade and communication for centuries.

From Ottoman occupation and Habsburg rule to a modern EU city, beautiful Budapest has evolved for centuries. Today, it’s a flourishing tourist hotspot with thermal spas, Baroque-style castles, upscale hotels, and restaurants.

READ MORE Europe’s most walkable city is a historic gem – full list of destinations

One of the most innovative outcomes of its transformation is the city’s famous ruin bars. Located primarily in the historic Jewish Quarter, these bars are set in once-abandoned buildings and courtyards.

They offer an eclectic and vibrant atmosphere, where you can sip on a pint for less than £2, especially if you visit lesser-known spots.

The ruin bar concept started by repurposing abandoned spaces into social hubs that combined art, culture, and nightlife elements.

These off-beat bars, which first appeared in the early 2000s, are housed in abandoned buildings and courtyards primarily located in Budapest’s Jewish Quarter, in District VII.

This historic area, once the site of the Jewish ghetto during World War II, fell into disrepair in the decades following the war, leaving behind numerous crumbling structures that would later become the perfect setting for these unique nightlife establishments.

ruin bar

The ruin bar concept started by repurposing abandoned spaces into social hubs (Image: Portia Jones)

The concept of ruin bars began with Szimpla Kert, which opened its doors in 2002 in a dilapidated building on Kazinczy Street.

Its success was immediate, as it blended its rundown aesthetic with mismatched furniture, quirky art installations, and a laid-back atmosphere.

Szimpla Kert quickly became a symbol of Budapest’s ability to reinvent itself, and its success spurred the opening of more ruin bars across the Jewish Quarter. Initially, Szimpla was a small, experimental venue offering young and creative locals a space to gather.

Szimpla Kert, whose name translates as “simple garden,” was characterised by its eclectic and curious decor—mismatched furniture, bathtub sofas, and graffiti-covered walls—which created a laid-back, bohemian atmosphere infused with music.

It quickly became a cultural hub, setting the standard for a burgeoning trend across the city.

Other bars soon followed, such as Fogasház and Instant, each contributing to the evolution of this alternative nightlife scene.

Ruin bars are not just places to drink cheap booze; they are multifunctional spaces that host various cultural events, including live music, art exhibitions, film screenings, and even farmers’ markets.

The interiors of these bars are a mishmash of styles, often with retro and vintage decor that lends each venue a unique and highly photogenic charm.

Despite their unpolished, gritty exteriors, some bars, like Mazel Tov, have adopted a more polished aesthetic, blending the shabby-chic look with upscale elements that hipsters love.

bar

Quirky decor sets these bars apart from anything you’ll find elsewhere. (Image: Portia Jones)

What is it like visiting a ruin bar?

The experience is akin to wandering through a forgotten relic of the 20th century, only to discover that it has been transformed into a lively bar pulsing with live ‘gypsy music.’

Quirky decor sets these bars apart from anything you’ll find elsewhere. Imagine mismatched furniture—everything from grandma’s floral armchairs to battered school desks—set against walls adorned with graffiti, peeling plaster, and eclectic art installations.

Lighting is usually dim, with bare bulbs and neon signs casting an ambient glow over the surroundings. In some bars, you might find an old bathtub repurposed as a seat or a retro TV set transformed into a low table.

The ambience in these bars is as eclectic as the decor. Each ruin bar has its unique vibe, but they all share a sense of laid-back, unpretentious coolness.

Szimpla Garden ruin bar / pub with visitors - a popular spot for locals and tourists in Budapest

Szimpla Garden ruin bar is a popular spot for locals and tourists (Image: Getty)

Over at Instant-Fogas, the atmosphere ramps up a notch. This sprawling complex is a mecca for night owls, with its surreal decor—think giant animal sculptures and ceilings covered in hanging plants—creating a dreamlike party atmosphere. The music here is more intense, with different rooms offering everything from techno, drum, and bass to rock and 80s hits.

Other venues, like Mazel Tov, offer a more polished take on the ruin bar concept. Here, the vibe is refined, focusing on Mediterranean cuisine and cocktails in a garden setting.

Fairy lights twinkle above, and the walls are lined with greenery, creating a magical atmosphere that feels worlds away from the gritty origins of ruin bars.

Despite their diversity, all ruin bars share a common thread: they are spaces where creativity and history collide, offering visitors a unique slice of Budapest’s cultural life.

The ruin bar scene in 2024

Today, the ruin bar scene in Budapest is more vibrant than ever. On a typical weekend night, the streets between Dob and Dohány utca near Klauzál tér are thronged with locals and tourists, all eager to experience the unique charm of these popular and lively bars.

Szimpla Kert : As the original ruin bar, Szimpla Kert remains one of the most popular spots in Budapest. It’s not just a bar but a cultural hub hosting live music, film screenings, and a weekly farmers’ market. The vast space has multiple rooms and a large courtyard with hanging disco balls, guitars and exposed wiring.

Instant-Fogas: This colossal party complex results from a merger between two former ruin bars, Instant and Fogas Ház. With its seven distinct rooms, each playing different genres of music, Instant-Fogas is a go-to spot for those looking to dance the night away.

Doboz: Located on Klauzál Street, Doboz is easily recognisable by the giant red King Kong statue that dominates its courtyard. This bar combines the classic ruin bar aesthetic with a modern twist, offering themed rooms and a variety of music styles that cater to different tastes.

Csendes: For a more relaxed experience, Csendes offers a unique take on the ruin bar concept. This venue doubles as a café during the day and a bar at night, with a decor that includes vintage toys, mannequins, and century-old chandeliers.

Élesztőház: Craft beer lovers will find their paradise at Élesztőház, which features an impressive selection of Hungarian craft beers on tap. The bar’s industrial-style decor and laid-back atmosphere make it a popular spot for locals and tourists.

castle

Fisherman’s Bastion is one of Budapest’s most visually striking landmarks (Image: Portia Jones)

Beyond the ruin bars

While the ruin bars are a significant draw, Budapest offers much more than just pulsing nightlife.

Here, you’ll find thermal spas that use naturally heated springs bubbling up from below the ground, grand museums, bike routes, and one of the most beautiful cafes in the world.

Night river cruises

Budapest is beautiful at night. Take a night river cruise along the Danube to see the city’s grand buildings bathed in light.

These cruises offer a unique perspective of Budapest’s illuminated landmarks, including the Parliament Building, Buda Castle, and the Chain Bridge.

Some cruises even include dinner and live music, providing a memorable way to experience the Hungarian capital.

Thermal baths

No trip to Budapest is complete without a visit to one of its famous thermal baths. After a long night of partying, the Széchenyi Baths provide the perfect way to unwind and soak away the hangover blues.

These historic baths offer thermal pools, saunas, and spa treatments in a beautiful neo-Baroque setting. The outdoor pools at Széchenyi are perhaps its most iconic feature.

Even in the depths of winter, locals and tourists can be found relaxing in the warm waters of the main pool, which hovers around a comfortable 27-38°C. It’s an unforgettable sight—steam rising from the surface as bathers enjoy the warmth, surrounded by the historic grandeur of the baths’ architecture.

Feast on street food at Római Part

The beach life is just a bike ride away from the centre of Budapest at Római Part, a ten km-long riverside escape right on the Danube. Boating, beer, and burgers await you at this mellow river beach retreat, lined with bohemian bars, live music venues, and tasty street food offerings.

Order fried fish or hot and crispy Lángos, settle into pastel deckchairs and watch the canoeists glide by; there’s no hastiness here.

You can bike from the centre of the city to Római Part, following the Danube, or jump in the HÉV electric train from Batthyány tér to Rómaifürdő. This service also allows a limited number of bikes aboard if you want to bring your bike to the beach.

Hunt down street art

Discover Budapest’s thriving street art scene and seek out the city’s colourful street art, spread out over several districts.

Local initiatives and street art competitions encourage burgeoning and established artists to make their mark on concrete canvases in the city, often with humorous or politicised messages.

While murals continually change and evolve in Budapest, popular ones include the “6:3” that depicts the celebrated football victory of the Aranycsapat (Golden Team) over England in 1953 and ‘Sissy’ the beloved Hungarian Queen.

Visit the most beautiful cafe in the world

Imagine a cafe where you come for the decor rather than the coffee. An establishment so grand that it attracts mobs of Instagram girlies, twirling and posing for likes.

This is the New York Café in Budapest, where the bold inscription outside reads “the most beautiful café in the world.”

It’s frankly hard to disagree; this opulent 125-year-old Café attracts thousands of visitors and snap-happy TikTokkers who flock here to marvel at its lavish rococo décor of marble columns, spectacular frescoes, and crystal chandeliers.

If you don’t mind splashing the cash, order their 24-carat gold cappuccino, served with Valrhona chocolate and raspberry cake, for a decadent start to the day.

Go on a Budabike tour

Bikers new to Budapest might benefit from an informative guided tour of the city with a local guide who can help cyclists navigate the winding bike paths that cut through the urban landscape and shabby chic grandeur.

Top-rated biking company Budabike offers specialist city bike tours, including highlights, night, and communist tours. These tours bring Budapest to life with personalised guiding and passionate insider knowledge.

Knowledgeable guides will also point out the city highlights, off-beat curiosities, and history. Did you know that Hungary invented the concept of escape rooms? Or that the boozy, six-part wine Puskás spritzer cheekily commemorates Hungary’s 6-3 football victory over England in 1953?

Explore Margaret Island

Escape city life and cycle to verdant Margaret Island, a 2.5 km long recreational island in the middle of the Danube River.

Meander through flower-filled meadows, romantic ruins and peaceful promenades, keeping an eye out for the dancing Musical Fountain that locals love.

Rest at hipster haunt Steg Pub and feast on traditional Hungarian Lángos, a delectable deep-fried crispy dough flatbread loaded with sour cream, garlic butter and cheese.

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