STROLLING down Hans Jensens Stræd, my thumb is permanently poised to snap another (slightly intrusive) photo of a local’s front door.
With its colourful buildings and cottage-core window boxes, this fairy-tale street in Odense is what dreams are made of.
If it weren’t for the Danish flags hanging from every home, you could have convinced me I was in Disneyland.
A great tale
Disneyland it may not be, but Odense is the birthplace of the world’s greatest storyteller, Hans Christian Andersen – and I’ve watched The Little Mermaid no less than 500 times.
So, on my first morning, I leap out of bed at the Hotel Odeon and make the five-minute amble to Hans Christian Andersen Hus.
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Here, I learn about the writer’s tortured journey to fairy-tale fame, through artefacts and interactive exhibits – although, Disney fans be warned, the originals are much darker, and spoiler alert: Ariel does not end up with Eric.
Adult tickets cost £18 (Hcandersenshus.dk).
Back on the cobbled streets, I discover Klods Hans, one of Denmark’s oldest souvenir shops, and find an array of unique papercut Christmas decorations (Klodshansodense.com), then dip into Scandi-chic toy heaven All About Kids (Allaboutkids.dk).
On the city’s industrial side is Storm Pakhus.
This street-food venue attracts stylish young people and is perfect for idling away an evening.
I sink some of the best (and biggest) Paloma cocktails I’ve had this side of Mexico, £11, safe in the knowledge that the Fat Cow burger and bacon fries at Burger Anarchy will soak up any hangover (Stormspakhus.dk).
Bath time
Designed like the top deck of a ship, Odense Harbour Bath is free to visit and makes for a refreshing morning dip alfresco (Odense-idraetspark.dk).
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Afterwards, a trip to Brandts art museum – a former textile factory with five floors of everything from old masters to contemporary works – will warm up you (and your soul).
I get lost in its Love, Lust & Freedom photography exhibition.
Adult entry costs£15 (Brandts.dk).
With the urge to rest my feet, I hop on an hour-long river cruise in the surrounds of Munke Mose park and enjoy unrivalled views into the city’s most affluent homes.
Adult tickets cost from £6.50 (Aafart.com).
It would be criminal to leave without sampling the nation’s favourite lunch and I find the very best open sandwich at Restaurant Værdsat in its potato and leek smørrebrød complete with “yoghurt dust”, £9 (Vaerdsat.dk).
I then grab a bag of the now TikTok-famous Bubs sweets at Slikparadiset, which is packed wall- to-wall with delicious pick ‘n’ mix.
Another must-visit is Odense’s oldest restaurant, Klosterkroen, with its serious comfort-food menu.
I order stegt flæsk, the national dish of fried pork belly with parsley sauce and boiled potatoes, and almost faint at the size of the huge portion, £22.50 (Klosterkroen.dk).
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Nearby, the crowds of Amy’s Bar & Winehouse entice me in for a night cap (Amysbar.dk).
I sip a Tuborg beer, £6, in the city’s best people-watching spot – it’s my own fairy-tale ending.
