What Laduma Ngxokolo showed on Sunday at the residence of the South African ambassador to France wasn’t just the fall collection of his label Maxhosa Africa. With his first presentation on the official Paris calendar, he was planting the flag on behalf of the African continent in the global fashion arena. “I believe we, the … Read more
Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient continued to explore the notion of what comes after sleepless nights on the dance floor for a woman who has bigger fish to fry in her life with the latest Ottolinger collection. The duo proposed a wealth of deconstructed traditional suitings and dresses, as well as body-hugging knits. They also … Read more
Now on her third season in Paris, Veronica Leoni is growing ever more confident in the direction her label Quira is taking. “It’s about taking ownership of a point of view,” she told WWD. “I really try to tell the story of womanhood in a personal way without layering or allowing someone to say how … Read more
What’s the difference between fashion and style? It’s a question Demna asked himself as he designed the fall Balenciaga collection, which stayed true to his hardcore, DIY inclinations but with less angst and more wry humor, even playfulness. It was there in the beaded, animal-print gown that opened the show, the gum-snapping model not bothering … Read more
For his sophomore collection, Vetements and Louis Vuitton alum Alain Paul proved himself to be a rising star in Paris with his clever deconstructive take on formal attire. It was sophisticated fare, with details rooted in the wardrobe for dance rehearsals. He proposed high-waisted trousers inspired by footless black tights and even reinterpreted the way … Read more
He got the savage, but maybe not the beauty. Sean McGirr’s debut was like an old school Alexander McQueen runway show in one respect: we were in the middle of effing nowhere in the dark and rain, and everyone left with an opinion. Taking over a damp warehouse, and using industrial tubing for seating, McGirr … Read more
With an all-day soaker in Paris on Saturday, Hermès didn’t much need to make it rain inside for the runway show. But it did make for a photogenic backdrop for the collection inspired by riding — both horses and motorbikes — even if it wasn’t quite the noirish wet asphalt of Hollywood movies, but rather … Read more
Priscilla Presley has been on our screens of late, with Sofia Coppola’s eponymous film last fall, and this season she was the main muse on Elie Saab’s mood board. He looked to her ’70s style for inspiration with a collection titled “Memories of Graceland.” (Though he says he hasn’t seen the movie just yet.) Thus … Read more
It’s difficult to pin down Alexis Mabille this season, showing a wide variety of silhouettes, as well as colors from black to blush to berry. But that’s the way he likes it. For the collection titled “Society,” he worked with the idea of a wardrobe for the woman who attends fabulous events and fundraisers, and … Read more
Andreas Kronthaler is ready to have fun again. For fall 2024, he had SunBengSitting x Sons of Sissy, a Vienna-based folk dance trio — Simon Mayer, Matteo Haitzmann, Simon Wehrli — over for a mind-boggling performance with them spinning, whipping, dancing, singing and yodeling. Even wood chopping and butt slapping were involved. It was hard to decide where … Read more
