Massimo Giorgetti gave the ladylike trend that’s sweeping Milan a thumb in the eye on behalf of Gen Z. “There is a kind of anger from the new generation towards the last generation,” he said backstage, explaining the stolen-from-mom archetypes — luncheon suits, cocktail dresses and camel coats — that he gave a rebellious edge … Read more
This was a show with signature Phillip Plein flash, and flesh, featuring performances by two Italian bands, one punk (yes, really) and the other hip-hop. It unfurled on a steep, pyramid-like set, forcing models in boots with skyscraper heels to tread carefully down the steep steps. The model who opened the show wobbled in her … Read more
Versace should be the Mount Olympus of power babes living in loud luxury with a classical twist. But the fall 2024 collection was so packed with ideas and product — not all entirely rich looking — that the brand message was muddled. Donatella Versace said she was thinking about a rebel with a kind heart, … Read more
MILAN — A sage green carpet was rolled out along the pristine Jil Sander showroom, where arched windows offered a stunning view on the landmark Castello Sforzesco under a gloomy Milanese sky. On each side of the room, long racks of clothes added to the graphic and tidy set-up that for a moment could null even … Read more
Vivetta Ponti was in a typically playful mood, sending out a collection that riffed on famous styles by Christian Dior, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, and Yves Saint Laurent with this take on haute bourgeois splendor. Ponti held the show at a palazzo in one of Milan’s ritziest residential neighborhoods, Magenta, with models striding through an open … Read more
It’s the dawn of a new day at Blumarine, where new creative director Walter Chiapponi made crystal clear he was eager to erase his predecessor Nicola Brognano’s work and take the brand on a different journey. “I arrived in this company three months ago, so I didn’t have much time to work on this collection … Read more
Gucci‘s financial turnaround may still be a work in progress but a year in, and just ahead of his fall 2024 women’s runway, creative director Sabato de Sarno is putting the pieces in place. His first women’s runway collection just hit stores, offering a sexy, Italian spin on fashion’s minimalist moment with rich-looking camel-hued outerwear, … Read more
Edgy but polished. The fall MM6 Maison Margiela collection nimbly straddled that divide: sharply defined shoulders coexisting with tattered hems, and a pea coat and biker jacket merged into a cool hybrid. Clear and tinted protective goggles heightened the sense of surgical cutting applied to tailored jackets and coats, the sleeves hacked off to leave … Read more
Backstage ahead of the Tom Ford fall 2024 ready-to-wear runway show, creative director Peter Hawkings was as eager to chat eyewear and how each acetate was chosen, and beauty as reflected in the collection’s palette and suggestion of being enveloped in “vanilla sex” as he was clothes. Which is to say that rather than shying … Read more
What do we want? Tailoring. When do we want it? Now. Giorgio Armani went straight back to the roots of Emporio Armani, serving up soft-edged, flattering suits and jackets to his hungry fan base. After seasons of swerving tailoring and experimenting with myriad styles and colors (with varying degrees of success) Armani has put Emporio … Read more
