greenpoint

The Secret Ingredient Behind a Breakfast-Taco Pop-Up

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The Secret Ingredient Behind a Breakfast-Taco Pop-Up

I think of myself as a morning person, but, still, I groaned and grumbled as I rolled out of bed before sunrise on a recent morning just to get breakfast. My destination was the Screen Door, a tiny ice-cream shop in Brooklyn’s Greenpoint that is currently serving as the host of Border Town, a peripatetic … Read more

A Tasting Menu with a Bit of Noma in Its DNA

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A Tasting Menu with a Bit of Noma in Its DNA

Midway through a recent meal at Ilis, a new, dramatic tasting-menu restaurant run by the Danish chef Mads Refslund, I looked up from a piece of carmine-red bigeye tuna loin, mirror-glazed in stone-fruit vinegar and only barely cooked, atop a square of kombu, and wondered, for a moment, exactly where I was. I knew, of course, … Read more