WE’D just escaped Hell’s Gate and were heading into the Jaws of Death, on what was definitely one of the most thrilling rides I’ve ever had.
No, I wasn’t in a theme park, I was onboard the Rocky Mountaineer, on an incredible rail tour from Vancouver to the gorgeous town of Banff, snaking our way through some of the most stunning scenery in the world.
And we had the best view of all 600 miles of Canada’s iconic First Passage to the West route in the Rocky Mountaineer’s luxurious GoldLeaf coaches.
Sitting smugly in my huge leather seat, using the inbuilt heater to keep me toasty as we travelled higher into the famous mountains, I had to pinch myself more than once that I was finally on this bucket-lister of a journey.
The plush bi-level dome design offered uninterrupted views of ice-blue rivers and lakes, snow-capped craggy mountains overhead and pine-clad hillsides, decorated in the colours of autumn.
I was like a bobblehead doll, taking in all the wonders around me, as our fabulously friendly and knowledgeable onboard hosts Toni and Dylan pointed out places of interest as we glided along, on our epic two-day adventure.
And I felt right at home as the story of the railway line and much of the rugged landscape is closely linked to Scotland.
It was Scot Sir John Macdonald, who became Canada’s first Prime Minister, that promised to complete the transcontinental railway linking the east and west coast of the massive country.
After a scandal or two, and working with another Scot, George Stephen, the Canadian Pacific Railway was completed in 1885.
And those Hell’s Gates? Well they were named by explorer Simon Fraser — whose Scottish parents emigrated to America.
The Gates are on the narrowest part of the river he explored, and that was named after him, where around 200 MILLION gallons of water surge through every MINUTE.
Toni let us know when we were approaching and everyone rushed to one side to take in the scary sight. You can even ride over the torrent on the AirTram over the gorge, if you’re brave enough that is!
The scenery changed, from lush lowland as we left Vancouver, to winding rivers cascading their way through the wilderness, then steep slopes and river canyons as we climbed higher into the Rockies.
We passed emerald waters, wetlands perfect for elk and moose, onto the astonishing Rainbow Canyon, shimmering in the afternoon sun, like something from an artist’s canvas, then over bridges offering incredible, panoramic views.
I was mesmerised by every twist and turn, and the only thing that could pull me away from the magnificent wilderness vistas was the call for food in the elegant downstairs dining compartment.
Even here there’s a feast for your eyes, as mouth-watering and beautiful creations are made and cooked onboard under the direction of executive chef Kaelhub Cudmore, using seasonal ingredients from the various regions we were travelling through, all served at linen-clad booths.
Breakfast began with warm croissants, then a menu with delights like avocado toast with salmon (delicious) to eggs Benedict (oozing and moreish) or maple-smoked bacon and locally sourced sausages, all washed down with juice, coffee, tea and even a glass of fizz or two — why not this is a trip of a lifetime after all.
Even while stuffing my face, the views from this level were amazing, as they were from the open-air viewing platform where we all craned our necks left and right, taking those iconic pics of the sleek train as it curved around mountain tracks, through the breath-taking wilderness.
Back at my seat I took in more astonishingly gorgeous sights, spotting long-horned sheep, eagles and a myriad of other birds.
Time flew as I drank in the ever-changing views, nursing a welcoming hot chocolate and delicious nibbles (thanks Toni) then it was time for lunch.
This is life onboard the Rocky Mountaineer admiring the scenery and eating. What’s not to love?
Again the food was superb. My tender Steelhead salmon (it’s actually trout but so named because of its pink flesh) was perfectly cooked and a perfect match for the sweet and crunchy string beans and luscious layered potatoes. Fraser Valley chicken breast got the thumbs up from my pals, as did the Alberta pork.
The wines from the Okanagan region of British Columbia perfectly matched the dishes and the chocolate torte was a fitting end to a fabulous feast.
I literally rolled back up to my seat, pushed the recline button and if it hadn’t been for more of those glorious scenes outside my window, I’d happily have fallen asleep until we reached our overnight stop.
GO: ROCKY MOUNTAINEER
GETTING THERE: For best fares to Vancouver and back from Calgary see skyscanner.net.
STAYING THERE: A six-day First Passage to the West trip, with two days onboard the Rocky Mountaineer in Gold Leaf service, two nights in Vancouver, one night in Kamloops and two nights in Banff is from £2,789pp. Departures between April and October. See rockymountaineer.com.
MORE INFO: Get your hol off to a great start and visit the Plaza Premium Lounge at Edinburgh airport from £44pp. See plazapremiumlounge.com.
But the scenery — and afternoon snacks, cocktails, wine and champers — were too much to resist and my epic journey continued, this time with views of the incredible Thompson River and Kamloops Lake.
We rolled into Kamloops and everyone rolled off the train stuffed and satisfied, and made their way to their various hotels and out for dinner at a lovely local bar or restaurant, comparing notes and tales and recounting how lucky we were to have experienced such a fantastic day together.
The adventure continued early the next day as we were waved on our way by what seemed like every rail worker in the town.
More of Mother nature’s stunning scenery awaited and it got more stunning with every mile as we climbed higher into the glacier-topped Rocky Mountains.
Another fabulous breakfast and lunch followed, and we crossed the great Continental Divide, the highest point in the journey at 5,332ft above sea level, which separates the Pacific and Atlantic watersheds.
Then it was on to Kicking Horse River and next up was the incredible engineering feat of the Spiral tunnels at Kicking Horse Pass.
The maze of tunnels is cut into the rockface of both Mount Ogden and Cathedral Mountain and in the darkness you’ll find it hard to decide if you are twisting left or turning right.
I marvelled at mighty Mount Stephen as it loomed over us (named after another Scot surprise, surprise) and passed Castle Mountain on our final leg into Banff, welcomed by waving locals as we pulled into the station.
Read more on the Scottish Sun
My epic journey wasn’t over as I stepped off the train in this gorgeous little town. I had the astonishingly beautiful Lake Louise and Lake Moraine to explore, as well as the imposing Rockies to conquer.
Who needs rollercoasters when you’ll have the ride of your life on the Rocky Mountaineer, one of the most beautiful and exciting train journeys in the world.