With his full focus on womenswear as the men’s collection is now being overseen by an in-house design team, Filippo Grazioli is even more dedicated to tweaking the familiar look of Missoni’s signature patterns.
He showed glimpses of this commitment in the opening part of the concise resort 2025 collection, which hinged on simple and slender silhouettes and reiterated that sense of ease and spontaneity on which Grazioli is basing his vision for the fashion house.
With safari destinations serving as inspiration, the designer brought in a more subdued palette of earthy and natural shades to present Missoni’s signatures in a less literal way, best exemplified by a belted overall covered in a chevron pattern that was reworked to mimic an animalier motif. The printed cotton look made for one of the few pieces in the lineup that weren’t actually knitted, which is also news when it comes to Missoni.
Elsewhere, Grazioli went back onto the knit track while keeping things relaxed and unfussy by working elongated crochet pants and buttoned pencil skirts in stripes in sober colors, as well as addressing more nighttime occasions with easy-breezy black-and-white knitted dresses enriched with Lurex threads.
The initial laid-back palette — which Grazioli said he embraced to make Missoni’s chromatic world accessible to a wider audience, easier to mix-and-match and more everyday — gave way to vibrant pops of color in the second half of the collection. Here, the designer spun stripes into youthful knitted mini sets and asymmetric tops, as well as introduced fluid tailoring in upbeat shades of pistachio, coral red and baby blue, showing there’s no escaping colors for too long in a house like Missoni.
