London Fashion Week February 2024: Key Trends and Items

Past Lives

Georgian, Victorian, or Edwardian, UK designers are known for their
ability to put together looks that reference historical eras while
making them relevant for today. . Whether it’s on the catwalks or on
the streets, it’s quintessentially British to mix and match lace,
tulle and sheer layers with other unexpected fabrics.

Alex S Yu

Look 7: a transparent dusty pink slip dress over geometric print
pants and a matching top with an asymmetric brown layer. Strappy
sandals finished the look.

Bora Aksu

Look 4: an ivory pointelle sweater with a white lace collar and
ruffled trim was shown with a long-layered skirt. A ‘fifties style hat
and silver boots accessorized the outfit.

Molly Goddard

Look 18: a peach-colored sweater knit top with a drawstring
neckline, embellished with rosettes, over a dark red tulle layered
skirt.

Preen: designers, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi

Look 9: a semi-transparent devoré dress under a military jacket and
a green quilted jacket.

Simone Rocha

Look 28: a transparent shift dress with brown fur accents and
crystal embellishment. Accessories included Simone Rocha x Croc
footwear.

Shine On

Paco Rabanne was known for using unconventional materials such as
metal and plastic in his clothing, and for his incorporation of
futuristic elements in his designs. His space age style complemented
the ‘Swinging Sixties’ perfectly. The iconic designer passed away just
over a year ago and some of the London designers appeared to pay
homage to him by showing some futuristic looks of their own.

Chet Lo

Look 28: a floor-length black fitted sleeveless dress embellished
with silver paillettes and a matching headscarf.

Connor Ives

Look 2: a form-fitting short sleeved black dress with mirrored
paillettes and a placed print in white.

David Koma

Look 37: a black fishnet top with large round silver and crystal
embellishment and black hose under a floor-sweeping duster;
accessorized with black patent pointed toe flats.

Annie’s Ibiza: designer, Annie Doble

Look 6: a fitted mini dress embellished with silver bugle beads and
silver strappy sandals.

Di Petsa: designer, Dimitra Petsa

Look 27: a silver bustier with bead embellishment with black
leather pants. A silver choker matched the bustier.

Intimate Moments

Half-way through, It’s becoming clear that two big overall trends
for the ready-to-wear season will be tailoring and lingerie. As seen
the week before in New York, designers used a myriad of sheer fabrics,
silks and satins for sensual lingerie-inspired looks.

Barrus: designer, Neslişah Yılmaz

Look 7: a black bustier with sheer panels embellished with crystal
and a matching knee-length waist slip accessorized by black
sandals.

Dilara Findikoglu

Look 14: a nude corset with a lace-up front over a sheer nude ‘car
wash’ sheer waist slip and clear sandals.

Huishan Zhang

Look 1: an ivory satin floor-length slip with an embroidered floral
placed print and a black sheer overlay.

JW Anderson

Look 26: a sheer olive-green slip with dark red plaited straps and
tassels, shown with sheepskin booties.

Preen: designers, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi

Look 20: a black lace floor-length slip with pink straps,
accessorized with a black lace face veil and black boots.

Skirting the Issue

Fashion constantly proves that for every point there is a
counterpoint. After the phenomenal success of miniskirts during the
past few seasons, London designers went in the opposite direction
showing skirts in maxi and even floor-sweeping lengths.

16 Arlington: designer, Marco Capaldo

Look 26: a sleeveless ochre-colored knit top and ankle length
pleated skirt in an ostrich pattern faux leather. An oversized wool
scarf and black boots completed the look.

Burberry: designer, Daniel Lee

Look 3: a green fuzzy knit sweater with a deep vee front and Mongolian
fur at the shoulders with a floor-length pleated kilt in olive-green
wool gabardine and a olive-green shoulder bag.

Mithridate: designer, Demon Zhang

Look 31: a red and black space dyed turtleneck mohair sweater and
black floor-length quilted puffer skirt with red detailing.

Rocky Star

Look 11: a floor-length brown printed skirt with a broad gold
border, matching bustier and choker under a cropped brown jacket. A
boxy minaudiere and sunglasses finished the look.

Roksanda Ilincic

Look 3: a long gored skirt in dark red leather with a crackled
finish was shown with a black zip-front jacket in a technical fabric
and black pants.

Menswear Inspired

It’s well documented in the annals of modern fashion history that
we have Coco Chanel to thank for spearheading the use of menswear
fabrics for women’s clothing. From 1926 to 1931, during her
relationship with the Duke of Westminster, Chanel lived in England and
often wore his clothing, which included tweeds and other plaid
fabrics. With this season’s emphasis on tailoring, London designers
used traditional menswear fabrics for a variety of looks.

Paul Costelloe

Look 21: a brown and white Prince of Wales check coat with a cocoon
shape and scarf front detail. It was shown with brown boots.

Erdem Moralioglu

Look 2: an asymmetric black and white tweed shift dress with a
herringbone pattern and frayed hem. Accessories included opera length
black leather gloves and Mongolian fur flats.

Emilia Wickstead

Look 13: a long double-breasted coat in a black and grey plaid with
a fur trimming and lining. Ghillie loafers completed the look.

Yuhan Wang

Look 29: a black and ivory jacket in an oversized houndstooth check
with a shawl collar and frayed edges.

Burberry: designer, Daniel Lee

Look 23: a bronze-colored flight jacket with a Mongolian fur collar
and a floor-length brown, white and tan plaid kilt.