Levi Strauss & Co., the denim giant, has long safeguarded its trademarks with the fervour of a company that understands the vital role of intellectual property in fashion. Now, the company has launched a case against Philipp Plein, alleging that the designer’s use of a tab on garments infringes on Levi’s iconic and trademarked label, which has adorned its jeans for over eight decades.
The dispute comes after Levi’s launched similar actions against luxury brands Coperni and Brunello Cucinelli in 2023. The crux of these legal disputes is Levi’s Tab trademark, a feature as integral to the brand as its signature stitching and rivets. First introduced in 1936 and officially registered in 1938, the Tab has become a globally recognized symbol of the Levi’s legacy, often seen in its signature red but also produced in a spectrum of colours including white, blue, black, silver, and orange.
In a filing against Philipp Plein, Levi’s contends that the designer’s use of a “nearly identical” tab on garments is “likely to cause consumer confusion about the source” and dilutes the distinctiveness of the original. The legal arguments underscore the importance of trademarks not just as identifiers but as powerful tools of differentiation in the crowded fashion market.
A legacy enshrined in culture
Levi’s argues that the Tab trademark is more than just a branding tool; it is part of the cultural fabric of the 20th century. During World War II, the company’s apparel production was designated as an “essential industry,” bolstering its reputation as a cornerstone of American manufacturing. Today, exhibits in prestigious institutions such as the Smithsonian and New York’s Museum of Modern Art showcase Levi’s historical significance, further cementing the importance of its trademarks as symbols of authenticity and heritage.
“Levi’s is home to some of the oldest and most well-respected apparel trademarks in the world,” the company said in its filing, emphasizing that the Tab trademark is central to its identity. Protecting such intellectual property is not just about preventing counterfeit goods or knock-offs; it is about maintaining the brand equity that has been painstakingly built over generations.
The Role of Trademarks in Fashion
The legal dispute highlights a broader issue within the fashion industry: the pivotal role of trademarks in protecting design innovation and brand prestige. Unlike patents, which have a limited lifespan, trademarks can theoretically last indefinitely, as long as they are actively used and defended. This makes them a cornerstone of brand strategy for companies like Levi’s, which rely on instantly recognizable elements to connect with consumers in a highly competitive market.
Trademarks also serve to preserve the integrity of a brand’s identity in the face of increasing globalization and digital proliferation. By enforcing its rights, Levi’s sends a clear message to competitors and imitators that it will not tolerate actions that could dilute its hard-won reputation.
The Philipp Plein case is just the latest chapter in Levi’s long history of trademark enforcement, a necessity in an era where brand differentiation can mean the difference between success and obscurity. For Levi’s, the Tab trademark is not merely a detail sewn onto a pair of jeans—it is an enduring symbol of quality, authenticity, and a storied past that the brand is determined to protect.
