Isa Boulder may sound like a real-life person, but the name is entirely imaginary. “It was this kind of hypothetical person who embodies this vision of what the clothes could be and what we could offer,” explains Basari.
As the show progressed, latticed knitwear in earthen tones came layered over brilliant flashes of satin swimwear, and fine gauge bodysuits were paired with low-rise flared knit trousers. But as the final model in an armour-like macramé bridal gown exited the runway, Cecilia Basari was not there to take the traditional bow.
Because of the challenges of being a small, independent brand, she was not able to bring her team to Paris for the first show; unlike many of her industry peers, Basari is not based in the traditional fashion-centric cities of New York, Paris or London.
Instead, her design and production studio is located on the Indonesian island of Bali, where the country’s traditional craftsmanship plays an integral role in her brand identity.
Born in Jakarta, Basari moved to Singapore at the age of seven as her parents were keen for her to have a bilingual education. Eventually, she graduated from Central Saint Martins in London before she returned home.
“You have this illusion that Bali is like a fake tourist island, but it’s very authentic once you really look into the culture,” she says. “You are reminded about the human side, which you sometimes forget when you live in the city. It’s very spiritual, it prioritises you to respect and revere nature.”
The relative seclusion of living on the island was pivotal in helping Basari hone her craft by looking inward.
“It’s very introspective. It became a bit lonely at times but it became very personal, looking into myself, what can I offer through my perspective, and I think that’s what Bali brings.”
What resulted was a keen focus in weaving and knitting – techniques the designer said she did not really have time to focus on during her studies.
“You look at new ways to create, rather than finding references from other trends or from the street. It’s like finding a technique within yourself.”
By virtue of being based on a holiday island, Isa Boulder started life as a swimwear brand before Basari began building up her ready-to-wear business, first in womenswear and then menswear in 2021.
Currently her team numbers around 60 people based in Denpasar. It is there that she handles all the sampling and maintains production in-house rather than outsourcing to a factory, thanks to the complexities of her techniques.
Basari and her team are constantly looking for new ways to make things – there is an almost fanatical focus on method that is self-evident in the most heavily worked pieces in the collection.
“I don’t think the brand would have been so artisanal or technically handmade [without Bali], because we do a lot of hand-weaving. It’s sort of intuitive, as opposed to something more technical or sleek. It’s more of an outpouring of instinct.”
The spring/summer 2024 collection had a heavy focus on macramé or knotted fabric, which Basari crafted into dresses, skirts and bodysuits.
“We used swimwear fabric,” she explains. “Usually macramé is not body fitted, it’s a bit loose and you would use different string, so we are trying to make this twist to it. It was quite challenging but worth it.”
Everywhere all over the world, artisans and craftsmen are facing the challenges of training the younger generation to carry on these traditional pursuits. Still, Basari does not see what they are doing as a straightforward continuation of existing methods.
“It’s not something we already know,” she explains. “We are all readapting and reworking our skills. We are learning on the spot and we’re just passionate about these new techniques. That’s what I feel is so fun.”
“We are also so obsessed with tubular garments, where there are no seams. It’s only something the wearer would notice. Your friends won’t notice, so it’s kind of a secret message from us.”
“Sometimes I try to imagine she’s my boss,” she laughs. “Sometimes I get discouraged and think ‘Phoebe wouldn’t accept this’, but at the end of the day, you just make it the best you can. She is my idol, even if we can’t achieve her level of perfection.”
Recently, Isa Boulder released its Resort 2024 campaign, photographed by Jim C. Nedd in Bali. With their long-standing stylist Morgane Camille Nicolas based in Paris, Basari says it was nice for the team to come and explore the scenery of the island and “to shoot in the landscape of where the garments come from”.
Her intent has always been to keep production local and create a healthy ecosystem in the local manufacturing industry, with many of the yarns sourced from a factory in Tangerang, Indonesia.
Isa Boulder was established in 2019, right as the pandemic brought the entire world to a standstill. “It was very surreal, we thought we were going to close,” Basari says, “but our first wholesale order didn’t cancel, we managed to ship it and that was so important to the timeline and progression of the brand.”
In a way, with shoppers stuck at home and buying online during the pandemic, where a brand was physically based also became a lot less important for consumers.
“Everyone was so focused on social media, it was a good time for brands to talk directly to the consumers, and it allowed us to slow down and figure out what they want and what they respond to – in that sense, we grew closer to the customer base.”
In terms of the growth of her brand, Basari sees herself very much in the “teenager” era.
“We’re still trying to reconfigure, sometimes as teenagers are. We’re very fickle,” she laughs.
“At the end of the day, we have a very distinct style. Our skill is craftsmanship, it’s very micro details that we want to emphasise to the customer and keep it intimate, for them to remember and know for themselves.”
