A HISTORIC cathedral just metres from ancient Roman ruins, cosy pubs with roaring fireplaces on seemingly every cobblestone path and a thriving high street reminiscent of the good old days.
This is St Albans, a leafy city just 25-minutes from London by train.
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I grew up in and around the area – and at 31 years old, I have no plans to leave.
Why would I? It’s frequently named one of the best places to live in the UK, including in The Sunday Times in 2020 when it was crowned winner in the South East category.
It has retained a village-like feel thanks to the plethora of green spaces and a compact centre, made up of protected buildings, dating as far back as the 12th century.
And it’s got enough going on that you rarely need to venture further afield at the weekends. That is, not unless you want to – the capital is only a short distance away, after all.
Luckily, over the years I’ve uncovered some lesser known attractions and learned the best times to visit the more popular dining spots.
Take the Waffle House, for example. Mere metres from the city’s park and housed within a Grade II listed former watermill, this restaurant is jam-packed at the weekends – and for good reason.
The menu consists solely of waffles piled with mountains of sweet or savoury toppings, including some more sophisticated flavours for the grown ups (how does hummus and avocado layered with olives, rocket and balsamic glaze sound?).
But you can’t book, so if you’re heading down on a Saturday or Sunday, get there at the opening time of 9am and avoid midday to 2pm if you can.
When it comes to decent grub, you’ve got your pick of low to high brow joints, many of which are run by locals for locals.
Over on London Road, not far from the station, an unassuming dry cleaners is serving up the best bagels and coffee in town.
It’s actually a cafe, Brad & Dills, but the old dry cleaning sign out the front might fool you. Bagels cost from just £5.80 for an egg and cheese served with ‘secret sauce’ or £7.80 for a Reuben crammed with pastrami, Emmental, sauerkraut, pickles and a dollop of that special ‘secret sauce’.
Less than a ten-minute walk from here, at the other end of the price scale, is Thompson, a fine-dining joint that stars in the Michelin guide and serves five to seven course tasting menus and an a la carte selection of classic British dishes.
It’s lavish and luxurious, but more affordable than similar spots in London with three fancy courses for less than £80.
Keep your eyes peeled for the food markets too. The 100-acre Verulamium Park, home to one of the world’s few remaining chalk rivers, plays host to Pub in the Park, TV chef Tom Kerridge’s foodie festival, every summer.
You can expect talks and demonstrations from some of the UKs most renowned chefs and stalls run by nearby restaurants, as well as some decent music – headline acts for this year included Olly Murs and Paloma Faith.
Then there’s a vegan market running through the city centre, operating several dates throughout the year. Some of the grub, like the mock duck wrap, packs such a meaty punch that it could convert even the most dedicated of carnivores.
Then there’s the ‘Feastival’, the bi-weekly general market and the Gin & Jazz festival, to name a few more.
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But save room for a pint, as this city is home to some of the best and oldest pubs in the UK. It’s also reportedly got more drinking spots per square mile than anywhere else in the country so is great for a pub crawl.
On the ten-minute walk from the station to the city centre alone, you’ll pass five drinking holes on the same street, including The Horn which regularly hosts live music sessions.
You may want to steer clear of Havana nightclub, further along the road, until you’ve sunk a few more beers in some of the other pubs first, though.
Then you’ve got Ye Olde Fighting Cocks which claims to be the oldest pub in the UK and backs on to the river, overlooking the park.
The building itself supposedly dates back to 793AD and according to rumour there is a collection of old underground tunnels in the beer cellar, once used by monks, that lead up to the Cathedral a short distance away.
I haven’t snuck my way into the cellar (yet), but I do know that the large garden area is perfect for a pint and Sunday roast in the summer months.
It’s this intriguing history that makes St. Albans really special. Roman ruins can be seen around the city for free, although the Verulamium Museum will give you a deeper look into the people that once occupied this city (tickets cost £5 per child and £10 per adult).
You can also book a guided walking tour (‘Historic St Albans – A City Revealed’, see stalbanstourguides.co.uk) that will take you to some of the local sites that are steeped in history, including the mediaeval clocktower at the foot of the high street, next to a very modern Gail’s bakery.
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And if strolling the cobbled pavements doesn’t tire your feet, some of the country’s most scenic walking trails can be picked up from the edge of the city.
I’ve been strolling these streets for 31 years now. And I’m still not tired of them.
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