This is coq au vin as it’s traditionally prepared in Alsace, where a fruity, local white is more popular than rich, dark reds from farther south – though, in truth, if keenly priced rieslings are thin on the ground, any medium white will do. It’s a tangy, creamy dish that’s perfect for autumn dining, especially if served with plenty of bread or mash to mop up the glorious gravy.
Prep 15 min
Marinate Up to 12 hr
Cook 3 hr 45 min
Serves 4-6
1 chicken, jointed and carcass retained (see step 1)
1 head of garlic
2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, plus extra to garnish
2 bay leaves
Salt and black pepper
500ml medium-dry riesling (see step 2)
1 carrot
1 onion
100g butter
175g bacon lardons, preferably unsmoked
4 leeks
250g chestnut mushrooms
1 tbsp flour
100ml single cream
1 egg yolk
1 A note on the chicken
I like to use a whole chicken for this, but you could use six thighs instead, or a mixture of legs, thighs and breasts, as you wish, and skip step 4 in favour of 300ml good-quality chicken stock. Keeping the meat on the bone and the skin on will improve the flavour of the dish no end, and you can always remove both before serving, if you prefer.
2 And a note on the wine
Medium-dry riesling is the classic choice here, as the dish’s name suggests, but if you can’t lay your hands on any at a decent price, a dry riesling, pinot blanc, unoaked chardonnay or fruity sauvignon or chenin blanc will do. And don’t spend more on the wine for the pot than on the wine you’ll be drinking alongside, because its subtleties will be lost in the cooking.
3 Marinate the chicken
Cut the garlic head in half horizontally, then put both halves in a large bowl with the pieces of chicken, a sprig of each of the herbs, one bay leaf and a scant teaspoon of coarse salt.
Pour in the wine, cover the bowl, then refrigerate and leave to marinate for as long as you can spare, and for up to 12 hours.
4 Make the stock
Meanwhile, put the reserved chicken carcass in a deep pan with the rest of the herbs. Roughly chop the carrot (no need to peel if it’s clean), peel and halve the onion, then add both to the pan.
Half-cover with cold water, then bring to a boil. Turn down the heat, skim off any foam that rises to the surface and cook very gently for an hour and a half.
5 Strain and reduce the stock
Strain the stock, then discard the aromatics and bones (after picking off and reserving any meat). Put the stock back in the empty pan and bring back to a boil. Turn down the heat a little, and cook until the stock reduces to about 300ml.
(If you like, do this and the marinating the day before you eat, and refrigerate the stock overnight.)
6 Start on the base of the stew
Lift the chicken pieces out of their winey marinade, pat them dry, then season and set aside.
Melt a quarter of the butter in a large casserole on a medium-high heat, then fry the lardons until golden (chop your own from thick-cut bacon, if that’s easier to source). Meanwhile, wash and finely slice the leeks and halve the mushrooms (or quarter them if they’re on the large side).
7 Fry the veg and chicken
Scoop out the bacon with a slotted spoon and transfer to a plate or bowl. Add another quarter of the butter to the pan, then fry the sliced leek and a pinch of salt, until soft. Scoop the leeks out of the pan with a slotted spoon, and transfer to the bacon plate. Repeat with the mushrooms. Melt the remaining butter, then fry the chicken pieces until deep golden on all sides.
8 Add the wine and leave to braise
Lift out the chicken and turn down the heat. Stir the flour into the hot fat in the pan, cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes, then add the wine from the marinade, scraping the bottom and sides of the pan as you do so.
Add the stock and the browned chicken, bring to a simmer, then cover the pan, turn down the heat and leave to cook for 90 minutes, until the meat is falling from the bones. Lift out the chicken and put it to one side.
9 Finishing touches
Whisk the cream and egg yolk in a small bowl, then take the pan off the heat and whisk the cream mix into the sauce.
Return the pan to a gentle heat, bring slowly to a simmer, then cook, stirring regularly, until the sauce thickens enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon. Season to taste, then stir in the lardons, leeks, mushrooms and chicken, warm through gently and serve garnished with more parsley.
