Colorado teems with peaks including 58 fourteeners, more than 600 thirteeners, and 32 ski areas — it can be hard to remember that nearly half of the state is flatter and undulating.
Born and raised here, that’s certainly been the case for me.
But skirting either side of the rugged Rocky Mountains, the Centennial State is home to desert mesas, plateaus, and canyons alongside the rolling High Plains — full of opportunities to explore.
Pueblo sits in Southeast Colorado’s high desert.
You may have heard of the city’s steel mill, green chili-dressed dishes, or the shattering 1921 flood.
Named after the El Pueblo trading post, Pueblo was established in 1861 at the former boundary between the United States and Mexico, adjacent to the Arkansas River.
This region holds its own for outdoor adventure as much as its high-altitude counterpoints.
From historic Downtown Pueblo to the Wet Mountains, put these spots on your road trip bucket list.
Historic Arkansas Riverwalk of Pueblo
Urban hiking in the center of Pueblo, I strolled on a winding paved path through an oasis of calm water channels, vibrant flowers, manicured grass, and forest shade.
“This is Downtown Pueblo?” I thought, a bit awestruck. I’d been expecting an average metropolitan experience.
This felt like a scene from a movie or a flashback to the canals of Venice, Italy.
It was whimsical, even, with the mosaic tiles and elaborate statues, which shared the region’s history, from river geology to indigenous figures. I suddenly wished there was more time before our dinner reservation.
A stunning bronze sculpture caught my eye: Walks Among the Stars, created by artist Dave McGary in 2004.
The late 18th-century Lakota Woman was wrapped in an heirloom patchwork quilt decorated with abstract celestial shapes. She’d started making quilts to replace traditional buffalo robes when the North Plain tribes began facing relocation.
The design known as the star quilt represents both kinship and prestige.
Nearly 100 years after the Great Pueblo Flood, it was hard to imagine the devastation that wrecked this downtown zone in 1921.
Hundreds of people died in that massive swarm, looting ensued, and burning lumber dotted the city.
Now, it has been designated as the Historic Arkansas Riverwalk of Pueblo, following a 32-acre reclamation project to restore the Arkansas River to its original flow after the diversion following the flood.
Today, visitors can even take a 25-minute guided boat excursion down the canal or cruise on the clear surface in a gondola, pedal boat, or kayak.
My travel partner, Eric, and I walked into Brues Alehouse, where we sat at a shaded two-top overlooking the water.
The restaurant is located in a renovated building that used to be the old police station. The original police sign and a portion of the jail cell doors were reused in the interior, as were 19th-century columns from the city’s steel mill.
A retired railroad track from Colorado Fuel and Iron (CF&I)—which transported coal to run the steel mill—rests beneath the bar as a footrest for patrons.
As I bit into the blistered shishito peppers and ranch, I knew I’d sleep well tonight at our campsite.
Lake Pueblo State Park
A short drive from Downtown Pueblo is Lake Pueblo State Park, where we set up camp while exploring the urban area.
In addition to the refreshing horizon of expansive navy water, we were particularly excited to check out the mountain bike trails.
With 64 miles of singletrack, this hub has earned an attractive local tagline: Fruita of the Front Range.
From our campsite along the Arkansas Loop, near the boat ramps on the southeast side of Pueblo Reservoir, we pedaled to the singletrack, which threads rocky bluffs, ancient Junipers nearing 200 years old, and sagebrush.
Brilliant, blossoming cacti popped in the short-grass prairie and four-winged saltbush: Pinkflower hedgehog, Plains Prickly Pear, and tree cholla.
I tried not to fixate on the plants to save myself from steering into a thorny mess while also keeping my eyes peeled for sharp obstacles on the trail ahead.
As I rode through the prickly succulents towering above me, I felt transported into a whimsical Dr. Seuss world, starkly contrasting my usual high-altitude biking.
After circumnavigating the plateau via Conduit Trail, we zigzagged by bike to the caprock top, where we enjoyed stunning views of the blue-grey waves ruffled by the wind.
After pedaling an out-and-back on the Arkansas Point trail, we unmounted and scrambled the rocks, then descended the Water Tower trail.
On the 5-mile ride, we hardly scratched the surface of the available trails and are eager to explore more, especially given that the water remains in view — a treat on any arid ride.
As the most visited Colorado state park — nearly 3 million people visit every year — we made sure to book our campsite in advance.
In addition to our bikes, we also brought our stand-up paddleboards (SUPs), but we didn’t pump those up because the wind was a bit too strong for our energy levels.
Lake Isabel & Bishop Castle
After enjoying mouth-watering breakfast burritos at Pueblo’s Southwest Deli and Cafe, we ventured west of Pueblo into the Wet Mountains, a Sangre de Cristo Mountains subrange.
The landscape transitioned from a spectrum of burnt orange, squash, and apricot to emerald, lime, and mint.
The name certainly fits, drawing moisture that infuses the valleys and slopes with high grass, pines, and aspens.
Our first stop was Bishop Castle, a bizarre stone citadel built and owned by Jim Bishop. The castle is open to the public to explore and climb.
His passion for the project began in 1971 when he made a 40-foot-tall, cylindrical metal water tower that his dad decorated with stonework.
The result resembled a turret, so Bishop started a lifelong project that included mixing his mortar, hauling rocks from ditches, pulling granite from the mountains, and reusing abandoned railroad ties as the arches.
As we explored the castle, we took our time, admiring the intricate stained glass windows, climbing up steep and winding staircases, and looking out from balconies to get a bird’s-eye view of the surrounding wooded area. Walking through Bishop Castle felt like being transported back to medieval times.
After climbing the steeples, we took a short drive to Lake Isabel, a 40-acre reservoir in San Isabel National Forest.
Surrounded by dense aspens and pines, we hiked around the clear water’s edge, checking out spur trails and eventually stopping for a picnic.
Someday, we’d like to return to explore the string of campsites with day-use picnic tables and grills along the rumbling Saint Charles River, which flows into the lake and creates a pleasant rumble.
The Civilian Conservation Corps originally made the reservoir for recreation in 1936, and that purpose remains today.
Stocked with brown and brook trout, we spotted anglers along the periphery, paddlers, and birders.
As the sun set, we headed east for dinner at the rustic and casual Three Sisters Tavern & Grill.
The restaurant sits in southern Pueblo County’s Greenhorn Valley, along the Frontier Pathway Scenic Byway.
After a long day outside, the pomegranate margarita, tempura avocado appetizer, and pub steak entree with poblano cream sauce was just the right refuel.
Pueblo Mountain Park: Nature & Wildlife Discovery Center and Horseshoe Lodge
Located 28 miles southwest of Pueblo, Pueblo Mountain Park is a 611-acre city-managed park with no roads that borders 17,000 acres of San Isabel National Forest.
Flourishing and lush, we drove across the farmlands and foothills into the forest of century-old Ponderosas to reach the outdoor oasis. We stayed overnight at the Horseshoe Lodge and Retreat Center.
The dense city park reminded us more of a national park — a more remote and wild variety — and is home to seven miles of trails.
We were thrilled to select the hike to the highest point: The Tower Trail to the fire tower at 7,400 feet. A bit more than two miles round-trip, we trekked uphill — a 500-foot ascent via switchbacks — through leafy scrub oak, ponderosas, and bright wildflowers.
The double-tier lookout was built in the 1930s for recreational purposes. From the top, visitors can enjoy the view of Beulah Valley, Pueblo Reservoir, and 14,115-foot Pikes Peak.
The Nature & Wildlife Discovery Center manages the property’s well-maintained trails and lodge. It is a nonprofit dedicated to environmental education and raptor rehabilitation with two public sites: the River Campus in Pueblo and this one, the Mountain Campus on the periphery of Beulah. The campus buildings were originally constructed in the 1930s by Work Project Administration crews and then abandoned.
In 2012, the property underwent a six-year renovation to become an eco-lodge featuring composting toilets and a biomass boiler heating system.
Adjacent to the lodge’s dormitory rooms is an interpretive center with exhibits covering the wildlife, flora and fauna. Outside, beneath towering pines and the singing cicadas, is a group campfire ring, meditative labyrinth, outdoor amphitheater, and gazebos.
That night, we enjoyed walking through the labyrinth and sitting beside a campfire outside our room.
By the end of our Southeast Colorado road trip, I was surprised by the variety and lushness of the climates in this zone, including the vivid desert blossoms. I also enjoyed the community’s celebration of history.
As mountain people, we’ll return for more camping and trail time.
