“Whenever royalty visits, stringent security measures are implemented, including thorough searches of the entire building,” says Bonnae Gokson, the founder of Sevva, a restaurant and bar that has been an icon of Hong Kong’s Central business district since 2008.
That’s standard protocol really, when guests coming through might include not only aristocrats but heads of state and high-profile celebrities.
Sevva divides people. It has hosted some of the city’s most glamorous events, from an Andy Warhol-themed party in 2009 to countless soirées headlined by luxury brands and famous faces. But it has also been largely painted as a sanctuary for tai tais (wealthy married women who do not work) and banker’s paradise, a place where no one bats an eyelid at the price of a bottled beer or slice of cake.
Nevertheless, Gokson’s social media post announcing Sevva’s closure in May 2024 was quickly festooned with crying emojis and comments singing a similar tune: “It’s the end of an era!”
Curious, we asked Gokson for her favourite memories of the place over the best part of two decades.
“New Year’s Eve celebrations at Sevva have always been extraordinary, with guests dressed in black tie and a plethora of indoor and outdoor entertainment. The night sky would come alive with fireworks from every angle, creating a breathtaking spectacle,” she says.
“The Princess of Thailand is a devoted fan of Sevva and has celebrated New Year’s Eve here with her ambassadors for at least five consecutive years.”
Bonnae Gokson on closing Sevva: people don’t visit Hong Kong any more
Bonnae Gokson on closing Sevva: people don’t visit Hong Kong any more
Another royal visited during Hong Kong’s Art Basel event earlier this year.
“We were honoured to welcome the Sheikha of Qatar and 20 ministers,” Gokson says.
On one occasion, Gokson adds, the Queen of Belgium held a fashion show on the restaurant’s terrace. The piece de resistance on the runway that night was a pair of boots encrusted entirely with diamonds, worth US$3.2 million.
“It was truly a spectacular sight,” she says.
The diamond boots made it in and out of Sevva without incident, though the same could not be said for the still-missing black-and-white vintage car print that was stolen from the men’s washrooms one year.
Surely it couldn’t have been Robert DeNiro, Lionel Richie, Sting or Pharrell Williams – who have all passed through Sevva’s doors over the years – or even former US president Bill Clinton?
The whodunnit is likely to remain unsolved, while countless other stories are unlikely to ever see the light of day.
“We deeply value discretion and respect the privacy of our customers,” says Gokson, who has hosted “VVIPs from diverse companies in finance, art, politics, fashion, and more.”
Sevva’s well-trained staff members uphold the highest standards of professionalism with discretion, she says.
Case in point: pop singer Jennifer Lopez came to Sevva during her 2012 concert tour and “requested no photography”, Gokson says.
“In line with our commitment, we respected her wishes and refrained from releasing any information.”
Others, Gokson says, have come away from Sevva inspired – she mentions the late fashion designer Alber Elbaz, who in 2013 was the creative director of Lanvin.
“When … Elbaz visited Sevva, he was captivated by [the restaurant’s] aesthetics,” she says. “He personally sketched whimsical drawings for our placemats.”
Gokson and Elbaz launched the Lanvin Loves Sevva afternoon tea collaboration later that year.
“Lastly, Sevva has hosted a diverse range of international acts and artists. Our most recent collaboration was with Courtney Act, widely regarded as the top drag queen artist in the world today.”
Act, real name Shane Jenek, is known for her high-octane high jinks on RuPaul’s Drag Race and met Gokson in Sydney around 2010. The two became fast friends and the performer was invited to headline one of Sevva’s early New Year’s Eve parties.
As for which famous faces might send Sevva off for its final sashay when the space closes next year, Gokson is keeping mum.
“All will be a surprise,” she says, coyly.