Copenhagen Fashion Week FW24 key trends

Now firmly established as the gateway to the runway season, Copenhagen
Fashion Week (CPHFW) goes from strength to strength. With its reputable
18-point sustainability criteria and its egalitarian ethos, CPHFW is seen
as a leader in the arena of sustainable and ethical fashion.

The FW24 shows ran from Monday, January 29 to Friday, February 2, 2024
with 29 participating designers. At the outset of the week attendees were
reminded that the ongoing wars and the uncertain outcome of this year’s
American elections will cast a long shadow over the forthcoming season.

According to Wallpaper.com, the fashion council’s CEO Cecilie Thorsmark
stated that: “We need to … make ourselves heard and push for change.
Whether we push for a better climate, peace, more diversity and inclusion,
political stability, or the safeguarding of our democracy.”

This uncertainty about our future has manifested itself in a desire for
structure, the classics and/or cozy layering. To that end, strong trends
emerged that we will most likely see repeated over the next few weeks.
Here are five of the best.

Sweater Weather

Wearing soft and cozy knitwear is at the core of the Danish cultural trend
known as hygge. Designers showed a wide range of versatile sweater knits,
often in matching sets.

Aeron: Designer, Eszter Áron

Look 17: A plant-dyed rusty brown ribbed wool three-piece set including a
maxi dress, cardigan and balaclava. A leather belt and boots completed the
look.

Emilie Helmstedt

Look 57: A sweater, beanie and long scarf in a variegated pink, yellow and
ochre striped mohair knit was embellished with whimsical ghost face pins
and shown with black cargo pants and Ugg boots.

Paolina Russo: Designers, Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard

Look 9: A turtle-necked cable-knit vest and matching mini-skirt in a
pink neutral tone was shown with a printed knit top, fair-isle arm warmers
and a beanie in the same pattern. Olive technical boots finished the look.

TG Botanical: Designer, Tetyana Chumak

Look 35: A lime and brown rib-knit zip cropped cardigan and matching
mini-skirt was created in collaboration with the artist Dasha Tsapenko and
was made of natural plant-based yarn and “inoculated with spores of
polypore fungus.”

Henrik Vibskov

Look 47: A sweater, leggings and a balaclava in a brown and orange intarsia
pattern were shown under a short coat with the same print in orange, yellow
and brown wool. Accessories included clear frame glasses and black ankle
boots.

School Rules

The re-emergence of the necktie as an important accessory has recently been
predicted by many sources. Several Copenhagen designers took a further
step, delivering styles that resembled boy’s school uniforms or tailored
menswear.

Forza Collective: Designer, Kristofer Kongshaug

Look 1: A white short sleeved shirt and black tie under a transparent layer
and a grey skirt with a side split. Accessories included aquamarine knee
socks and ochre-colored slip-ons.

Mark Kenly Domino Tan Studio

Look 23: A flecked grey gabardine three-piece pant suit over a cream blouse
with oversized bow. Knee-length slouchy black boots completed the look.

Mfpen: Designer, Sigurd Bank

Look 11: A pinstripe shirt and textured black tie with a safety pin. Grey
gabardine pants had a silver chain belt. Silver shoes finished the look.

Skall Studio: Designers, Julie and Marie Skall

Look 21: A classic black single breasted duffle coat with toggle closures
and patch pockets.

The Garment: Designer, Charlotte Eskildsen

Look 43: A white shirt with an elongated collar and cuffs under a yellow
cable-knit sweater with a deep vee and brown wool pants. Accessories
included a grey textured tie and black belt.

Sports Hour

As has often been reported in recent years, it’s thanks to designers like
the late Virgil Abloh that athleticwear has had such a strong influence on
fashion. It’s a trend that sees no signs of slowing down. CPHFW designers
appeared to be particularly drawn to color-blocked garments. Another
example of a tendency toward rigor in design this season.

Alpha Showcase

Look 51: A color-blocked skirt in black, blue and cream teamed with a
cream-colored mock turtleneck and a matching crossbody scarf with white
slides.

Baum und Pferdgarten: Designers, Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave

Look 25: A hooded windbreaker in navy and purple over a white polo and
embellished miniskirt. Accessories included an oversized pink suede tote
with grommets and black patent pointy toed flats.

J. Lindeberg

Look 11: A color-blocked knit top in black, blue and cream with a black
split-front skirt, a crescent shaped blue bag and black ankle boot.

Saks Potts: Designers, Cathrine Saks and Barbara Potts

Look 13: A color-blocked knit mini dress in red, slate blue and white with
a beige wide belt and fringed black suede boots.

Elisabet Stamm

Look 22: A white puffer jacket with a red, blue and black design and
matching pants, both in a technical material.

Lady Luck

After the commercial success of miniskirts last year, hemlines are dropping
and the midi length skirt looks set to be popular this season. Several
CPHFW designers showed ladylike looks that featured a straight mid-length
skirt reminiscent of Prada styles of the ‘nineties.

Alpha Showcase

Look 1: A semi-translucent top and skirt with torn pale blue textured
patches and matching flats and a slouchy bag.

Baum und Pferdgarten: Designers, Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave

Look 61: A translucent embellished skirt with a logo-emblazoned tank top
over a white shirt, black patent flats and black hosiery.

Forza Collective: Designer, Kristofer Kongshaug

Look 41: A bright white turtle neck knit top and white midi-skirt with
white hose and ballet flats.

Gestuz: Designer, Sanne Sehested

Look 51: An oversized cardigan in brushed wool with a ribbed trim in two
shades of blue and a mid-length blue wool skirt. Accessories included a
beaded bag with a silver chain handle and black patent flats.

Skall Studio: Designers, Julie and Marie Skall

Look 23: A grey knit slim fit turtleneck and grey plaid bias cut midi skirt
accessorized by Oxford shoes and ankle socks.

Sing the blues

Perhaps because our post-pandemic desire for casualwear is still in play,
not to mention a growing interest in Western gear, expect to see plenty of
denim looks again this season. The runways of Copenhagen were packed with
fresh silhouettes and washes. However, the biggest standouts were double
denim outfits in a light blue wash.

Stine Goya

Look 21: A longline fitted jacket with a wide belt in light wash denim over
a mid-length matching skirt and jeans.

Ganni: Designer, Ditte Reffstrup

Look 23: A slim line shirt/jacket under a matching wrap skirt embellished
with beading and a fringed hemline, all in a light wash.

Gestuz: Designer, Sanne Sehested

Look 59: A cropped zip-up jacket with high-waisted jeans, both in a light
wash.

Baum und Pferdgarten: Designers, Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave

Look 31: A longline single-breasted jacket in a light wash denim with a
logo print and matching jeans.

Skall Studio: Designer, Julie and Marie Skall

Look 37: A classic denim jacket in a light wash with a matching mid-length
skirt.