Folklore techno-meet-Fruits, the cult Japanese street-style zine, would perfectly sum up Chopova Lowena’s spring 2025 show.
An army of Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena’s chukaboos – a Victorian term for beloved friends and the theme this season – walked down the narrow basement space that once hosted fashion pr Mandi Lennard’s office in Shoreditch. In the front row, there was a growing proportion of the brand’s big spending believers as well.
The collection had everything — new versions of their signature carabiner skirts, leather jackets, lace dresses, bright knits, cartoon t-shirts, trousers embellished with medallions, shoulder bags with pockets that carried Hellmann’s mayonnaise, ugly-pretty Mary Janes, and now sparkly sneakers in collaboration with Asics.
Backstage, the duo also confirmed that the brand is adding fragrance this fall with a trio of spicy scents made from Bulgarian flowers and herbs in hand-drawn bottles.
It might be a lot to take in for some but that’s how overwhelming the brand has always been — every piece was stamped with the duo’s quirky, cutesy magic touch.
The duo said they were inspired by “ferocious muses of America’s past” like Calamity Jane, who was known for her butch style in the Wild West, as well as Giuseppina Morlacchi, who introduced the can-can dance to the U.S. in the 19th century, which explained the clash between butch attire and hyper-femininity in the collection. The A-line silhouette and accentuated waistline were nods to the Victorian era, and gymnastics, respectively.
