Near the woodsy high desert town of Bend, Oregon, winter brings an abundance of light, dry snow to the slopes of the Eastern Cascades, capping the mountain peaks with piles of the powdery stuff that ski dreams are made of.
For locals and visitors, Bend and its environs offers an irresistible mix of Pacific Northwest snow fun: skiing and snowboarding on mighty Mt. Bachelor (opening day is Friday, Nov. 29), Nordic skiing on the region’s extensive cross country trail system, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, snowtubing, ice skating, and even dog sledding.
Last winter I flew to central Oregon on a direct flight from California, landing in the charmingly low-key Redmond Municipal Airport (RDM) — a half hour’s drive north of Bend and 45 minutes drive from my overnight lodging at the cozy Lodge at Sunriver, the popular resort nestled in a pine forest near the Deschutes River.
The next morning, I met a naturalist snowshoe guide, Jose Olalde, a native Oregonian and a lead guide for Wanderlust Adventures, for a half-day, three-mile-long snowshoe excursion in the popular Meissner sno-park, just west of the town of Bend in the Deschutes National Forest. Nordic skiers and snowshoers come here in droves to explore the park’s trail system across a rolling terrain thick with lodgepole pine and fir, some covered with bright green lichen.
Our group had limited snowshoeing experience but we soon mastered the snowshoe walking technique. Wide and awkward looking, snowshoes are remarkably effective devices for walking on otherwise inaccessible winter terrain. They provide not only a great workout but also an excellent way to immerse oneself in nature and the unique ambiance of the winter woods.
Following the sno-park’s winding trails, we saw delicate pine marten and fox tracks in the deep snow leading into the woods. A bright sun cast sharp shadows in trees and everything was hushed, as if the forest was enjoying a long winter slumber. Here and there our guide would bring us into untracked snow off piste, eventually reaching our lunch stop: the secluded Meissner hut, a simple log shelter with a wood stove and benches inside.
Jose stoked the iron stove with firewood gathered from a large pile outside the hut, heating up the burritos and cocoa he carried in his pack. Deep in the wintery woods in the warmth of the hut, it was quiet and beautiful and it felt like a real retreat into nature. I felt thankful for my clunky snowshoes for providing this unforgettable, soul-pleasing snow adventure. Details: wanderlusttours.com
Mt. Bachelor’s stellar skiing and snowboarding
Bend’s famous ski “hill”, Mt. Bachelor, is actually a 9,068-foot dormant volcano. It rises Mt. Fuji-like above the central Oregon landscape about 22 miles west of Bend. This no-frills resort, built on the slopes of an old shield volcano, is the seventh largest ski resort in North America and offers 4,323 acres of gladed and open terrain with 12 lifts accessing 101 runs for skiing and snowboarding during a season that can last six months. Bachelor’s runs offer 3,365 feet of vertical drop, enough to put big smiles on any snowsports enthusiast’s face.
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Rated the top resort for intermediate terrain in the Northwest, Mt. Bachelor was the perfect mountain for an intermediate skier and snowboarder like me. I picked up some demo skis at the Mountain Gateway base village and spent a long day exploring the lower mountain on cruiser runs like Bluebird and Cliffhanger. The upper mountain was socked in with thick clouds and closed the day I visited but, when open, the upper mountain offers dazzling black and double black diamond-rated descents, including the famed Cirque Bowl, a must-do for advanced skiers and riders. For Nordic skiers, Bachelor also offers 56 kilometers of groomed cross country trails. Details: mtbachelor.com
Paw-powered snow adventures
Near Mt. Bachelor, we embarked on a dog sledding adventure with Oregon Trail of Dreams. Owned and operated by Rachael Scdoris (along with her husband
Nick and her father, Jerry Scdoris), Rachael is a world-renowned athlete, finishing her first Iditarod in 2006. Riding with Rachael and their athletic team of dogs was a unique, chilly 26-mile trip with majestic views of snow-covered Broken Top, the Three Sisters and Mt. Bachelor to remote Elk Lake Lodge, where we enjoyed a delightful lunch. Details: mtbachelor.com
Holidays on ice
There’s no better way to enjoy winter than gliding across glistening surface of an ice rink, the crisp air on your cheeks, and the blades of your skates whisking across the surface. It’s pure Snoopy-like joy.
Ice skating in Bend is an ideal family-friendly activity and whether you’re a seasoned pro or a wobbly beginner, you’ll find ice rinks in Bend that are perfect for all skill levels. Rinks are found in downtown Bend, in Sunriver resort and in Redmond. Lace up those skates and embark on a journey of frozen fun in Central Oregon. Details:visitbend.com
Cultural diversions
There are ample off-the-snow, après-ski things to do and see in the Bend area: shops, restaurants, brewpubs, bookstores, art galleries and wine-tasting venues.
One must-see cultural spot is the esteemed High Desert Museum. Located just south of Bend, the museum is one of only six museums and libraries in the country to receive the prestigious 2021 National Medal for Museum and Library Service. Set on 135 acres with more than 100,000 square feet of exhibit space, the museum offers everything from high desert animals like foxes, snakes, raptors and owls, to living history actors recreating the pioneer days of central Oregon. One of their most fascinating temporary exhibits (running though January 12, 2025) is “Sensing Sasquatch”, which explores Sasquatch’s (aka Bigfoot’s) past, present and future in the High Desert region through the eyes and legends of the Indigenous people of the Northwest. Details: highdesertmuseum.org
Where to Stay
The Lodge at Sunriver
This popular lodge south of Bend offers luxurious rooms with fireplaces and decks, two excellent restaurants and the popular Owl’s Nest pub, where I enjoyed a very fun Tuesday night trivia and taco night. A round-trip shuttle service to Mt. Bachelor is offered to resort guests. Details: sunriverresort.com
WinterFest
The Bend WinterFest in mid-February is a popular annual celebration featuring live music, ice sculptures, a winter carnival, and amusement rides (ride Ferris wheel in the snow!) Details: oregonwinterfest.com
