At a time when fashion is consumed through screens, Federico Cina offered viral content: one model carrying what looked like a concrete pillar on his back, and another one ferrying a fellow model in a matching outfit on her shoulders. For the finale, the cast lined the perimeter of a white box-like set and ripped through the pristine white scrim, breaking free to walk the runway one last time.
How deceiving social media can be, for beyond the gimmicks was a highly appealing collection rooted in geometric rigor, textural quality and soft color combinations.
Season after season, the Italian designer has displayed collections inspired by his personal emotions and experiences, which translated into clothes in different ways — from arty-crafty lineups to ones referencing ‘90s style — that sometimes make it tricky to get a clear idea of Cina’s aesthetic world.
With its rigid constructions and exact lines, the fall 2024 line demonstrated yet another approach. “We grow and we find ourselves different. We decide to abandon what is no longer needed,” read an excerpt of the wordy press notes.
Hence, the pared-back approach expressed in a plethora of great minimal coats and tailored suits fastened on one side by metal bars, or built with layered constructions, as well as pants and shorts with sharp folds. Denim workwear also made an appearance, featuring panels and asymmetrical closures punctuated by snap fasteners.
Ribbed knit coats and oversized suits in charming pastel shades reflected Cina’s expertise in knitwear, which once again shined with soft and fuzzy textures, faded colored patterns and gentle proportions. These served as a cozy foil to the collection’s precise lines.
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