A rustic cotton trenchcoat in a panama shade, subtly sparkling with rhinestones exquisitely embroidered to create a herbarium design, exemplified Brunello Cucinelli’s luxurious grand tour for spring, imagining a journey through the Mediterranean coast and on to the desert dunes.
The fluid suits with stripes shimmering with threads of Lurex in a blue palette and sailor T-shirts were evocative of the Riviera, while the cropped, belted jacket and long cotton organza skirt with a vaguely animalier print in chocolate brown and ivory would be appropriate for any tea in the desert.
Perhaps reminiscent of the blistering sun, there were touches of red — although always in a dusty palette that is a signature of the brand — seen in the wraparound dress.
Cucinelli gave his personal touch to the safari jacket in suede, worn over a linen and silk dress with an intricate mesh of tiny knots and sequins.
Nothing looked tight or constricting, pants and skirts were extra long, roomy and fluid. It was reductive to call the knits with that name as they were a marvel of labor. Cue the macramé silk and linen cardigan, woven by hand in a geometric openwork pattern, that took 70 hours to be completed.
The collection was cohesive and a strong statement from a brand that built its success on manual craftsmanship and precious fabrics. As Brunello Cucinelli himself has said before, there is nothing quiet about this luxury — it screams exclusivity.
